Like I said, if I shot them on different locations and especially in different weather, I wouldn't be able to notice serious difference either. I remember from my teenage years that "Kodak is overall red" while "Fuji is overall green", but such things can be easily corrected during post-processing or even printing.Thank you. I've used Fuji Superia and Kodak Gold for decades...it never occurred to me that the colors would/could be so different.
And I'm fully aware of it.While I applaud your efforts, I'm afraid that your test is actually a test of how your scanner and scanner operator works with each film.
While I applaud your efforts, I'm afraid that your test is actually a test of how your scanner and scanner operator works with each film.
I didn't like Pro 400H when I tried it in medium format. hopefully Portra is better.I love the warm earthy tones of Gold. For color accuracy Portra or pro 400 is the way to go.
I always had my suspicion about C200 and Vista200 being two different things, because Agfaphoto looked way better. And elsewhere some people called me crazy for that because "dexter" website says otherwise.C200 looks different than APV 200. That's interesting I was convinced they were the same emulsion. Could it have been Superia 200 instead? That would explain why it was discontinued.
I wanted to try Superia 200 not so long ago, but it costs almost as much as Ektar (my main choice for "serious" stuff) does, so I abandoned the idea.The number code on the cassettes of APV200 matched Fuji C200....but the photos here do look different to Fuji C200.
I've used all the Superia films but never actually used Fuji C200. I just knew I liked APV200 when I tried it. I was unaware of it's likely origins at the time.
Should it affect the end result that much? I mean, the film should be consistent as long as it's not expired (and sometimes even after expiry).It could be the same emulsion but stored for a different period of time prior to being shipped out.
I learn something new every dayYes, it could. Emulsions continue to ripen after being coated, and film manufacturers often factor in a certain amount of storage time before shipping a batch of film out. Change that and you can change the color balance if the different emulsion layers age slightly differently.
Storage time prior to shipment is mainly why, back in the day, Ektachrome had more consistency than Elite Chrome even though they were the same emulsion. Ektachrome was stored longer before being shipped out.
I personally had a feeling that Gold has less grain. But color rendition is better with Colorplus. To say that one is better than another would be wrong, I still have to buy both.For many years l would want know what is the different with Kodak Gold and Colorplus. Did you feel the Gold would be better than Colorplus?
I agree. You should optically print them and make sure that the frame printed include a neutral grey card which should be perfectly balanced. Also the scene photographed should be in the exact same light conditions for all films and it should be use the same camera/lens system.While I applaud your efforts, I'm afraid that your test is actually a test of how your scanner and scanner operator works with each film.
I agree on this.I agree. You should optically print them and make sure that the frame printed include a neutral grey card which should be perfectly balanced.
It seems I wasn't descriptive enough in the original post.Also the scene photographed should be in the exact same light conditions for all films and it should be use the same camera/lens system.
I know you used the same camera/lens system. As for same light condition I mean controlled light, like studio strobes. It is of the utmost importance to include a grey card because EVERY colour film available fresh on the market is capable of producing a neutral grey; the colour palette of the film comes out when the grey is neutral.It seems I wasn't descriptive enough in the original post.
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