Glue for 4x8 or 8x10 film?

[RogerHyam]

I'm cutting down 120 film to 127 for use in a Baby Rolleiflex. This means I am generating leftover pieces of film 46mm x 120mm which would make neat panoramic images in a 4x5 camera.

My plan is to make an insert from 3 layers of discarded 4x5 film that will hold the slip of film flat and in place in a regular 4x5 film holder.

Before I start trying out different glues I was wondering if anyone could recommend one. I'm sure this is the kind of thing many people have experience of!

 

[koraks]

How about double-sided tape? Use either a low-quality product that doesn't stick too well, or "un-sticky" some good quality tape by applying a rag to it a couple of times, until the tape has just the right tackiness to keep the film in place while releasing it easily when you're done.
You can apply the tape in room light and then attach the film in darkness, making it easier (in my mind) to work with than glue.

 

[Don_ih]

I'd adapt a holder to fit the film. You just need to make a couple of holders for each side of the film. I can picture what I'd do, but it's hard to explain. It'd take a bit of tape and couple of pieces of thin plastic.

 

[AnselMortensen]

If you will be generating a bunch of pieces of film the same exact size, modifying a film holder might be your best answer.
A plate holder might be a good option, too, with custom sheaths...maybe 3D printed?

 

[MattKing]

I'm cutting down 120 film to 127 for use in a Baby Rolleiflex. This means I am generating leftover pieces of film 46mm x 120mm which would make neat panoramic images in a 4x5 camera.

Try as I might, I can't figure out how the leftovers end up being 46mm x 120mm???

 

[Don_ih]

Try as I might, I can't figure out how the leftovers end up being 46mm x 120mm???

He cuts the whole 120 strip 46mm wide, then cuts 120mm off the end to make it the correct length for 127 film.

He also has a long narrow strip.

 

[MattKing]

I guess it is because have different numbers for the lengths of 120 film (815mm) and 127 film (650mm) - a difference of 160mm, not 120mm.
But thanks for clarifying that the first cut is the lengthwise slit.

 

[RogerHyam]

I guess it is because have different numbers for the lengths of 120 film (815mm) and 127 film (650mm) - a difference of 160mm, not 120mm.
But thanks for clarifying that the first cut is the lengthwise slit.

Don_ih describes what I'm doing correctly. Just for clarity here is a photo of the rig I'm using. It is made from an old 120 folding Brownie (the bellows were rotten and the lens is in another project. I didn't destroy a thing of beauty for this!). There are various completely 3D print machines or completely handcrafted machines on the interwebs.

I slice the roll and backing paper completely to 46mm leaving a ~15mm strip that I discard. I could put it in a Minolta 16 cartridge but shooting 16mm really doesn't spark joy.

The actual film of 120 seems to vary in length a bit between brands. I roll till I reach the correct point on the 127 backing paper (marked with a tape or punch hole) then cut off the remainder and taped down the end. The excess is indeed up to 200mm long - which also might vary with my rolling of the 127.

I have also made a stencil so I can mark the backing paper correctly with a sharpie for use in cameras with peehole windows but these aren't needed on a Rolleiflex because it is all automatic.

I have tried rolling the offcuts into short 127 rolls. The trouble doing this for any camera is lining up the short piece of film with the numbered backing paper. This isn't an issue with the Rollei because it detects the beginning of the film (then leaves an annoying gap). I can get between 3 and 4 exposures on a short using this method but, because you have to be particularly careful changing in subdued light with these hand rolled films, changing film every 3 exposures is a pain!

Everyone seems to do the slicing and rolling of 127 slightly differently. I should document my whole process I guess but I'd like to refine it a bit more first.

Sorry too much detail but I guess you are nerds for this stuff!!

I did some messing with 4x5 and CS glue last night and think I have a system to mount remains in 4x5 holders. I'll post it here when I get it to work.

(The "59.5" is not film width that is the offset of the blade. I had to print several holders till I got it just right.)

 

[Truzi]

I don't think someone suggested this (because it's probably a bad idea regarding dust/lint/etc.)... remember those sticky rubber octopi and other "animal" toys? You'd throw them on a wall, they'd stick and roll down? Perhaps some sort of rubber like that in sheet form.

They can be washed to extend useful life, but I would think sheet rubber like this, if you could find it, might be too thick and would affect focusing distance. Just a thought.

Actually, I've read on this site many people lamenting the rubber coating of certain cameras becoming sticky - maybe that could be used, lol.

Another idea would be a light coating of rubber/contact cement. It easily rubs off for removal, but that could leave tiny bits of debris in the holder. I also don't know how the off-gassing would affect the emulsion.

 

[Don_ih]

There's always the old tried and true masking tape.

 

[RogerHyam]

I've made version 1 using CS (super) glue. The basic plan seems like it will work. I'll have to go make some images with it. My original question was whether the CS glue will hold or whether it will crack off after a couple of uses. I guess I'll find out! This would also work with 120 film uncut to do 6x12 images or with 35mm film to do 24x120 panoramas. Non destructive and free - if the glue holds.