Giving BVY's flexicolorC-41 chemical list a try!

trythis · Jun 16, 2016

I just ordered from this list posted. Total with shipping was $75 I have been using blix kits, both liquid and powder that have no shelf life at all once mixed.

I have read about using it with jobo equipment. I hope this works in regular tank, I will report info but would appreciate anyone that has used this method to chime in.

I plan to use this stuff in one shot according to the instructions.

From BVY

I post this often. You say you're running a lab, but if you're processing by hand (a Jobo, you say) and your volume isn't huge, then this should work fine.

C-41 Developer Replenisher ($13.95)
https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/c-41-dev-repl-lorr-tm-5l-ek-kodak-xhaz-hazsp1-832-0608-8231672/

C-41 Developer Starter ($13.00)
https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-c-41-dev-starter-lorr-1-2l-6601074/

Separate Bleach and Fix ($34.00)
https://www.uniquephoto.com/product...ssing-unit-f2-for-color-negative-film-1173319

Final Rinse ($2.95)
https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-flexicolor-sm-c-41sm-tank-final-rinse-1925254

bvy · Jun 16, 2016

I've had trouble posting certain links here. Anyway, good luck. Let me know if you have any questions.

trythis · Jun 16, 2016

I dont know whats up with the links. They work if you copy the text and paste. No idea whats going on.

It works in firefox but not Vivaldi browser (chrome based)
Works in Edge if I open in a new window but not when opening as a single click (new tab)

Sean · Jun 16, 2016

It looks like uniquephoto.com might be using some sort of marketing affiliate link system, hard to tell what is going on.

pbo · Jun 20, 2016

Hey trythis, I use the same setup, except for this 20L developer:
https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-c-41-entwickler-flxclr-devr-rplr-3667805

One problem you might encounter.. They might call you and tell you you can't just buy 1 F2 unit, it comes in packs of 2.

Richard Man · Jun 20, 2016

I use their separate bleach and fix, not for F2. I buy them 6 jugs each at a time. I have been using them for ~8 months now. Works great

trythis · Jun 20, 2016

pbo said:
Hey trythis, I use the same setup, except for this 20L developer:
https://www.uniquephoto.com/product/kodak-c-41-entwickler-flxclr-devr-rplr-3667805

One problem you might encounter.. They might call you and tell you you can't just buy 1 F2 unit, it comes in packs of 2.

When I run out of this kit, I may try that. You dont have to make 20L at once...I hope. I'd like to know what all comes in that package, the web site just shows a box.
How long do the components last?
They shipped my order of 1 with no questions. I read about the leaking issues and hope that does not happen. It arrives tomorrow, so we will see.

Richard Man said:
I use their separate bleach and fix, not for F2. I buy them 6 jugs each at a time. I have been using them for ~8 months now. Works great

Do you have the links, I cant imagine needing 6 jugs before the stuff fails.

pbo · Jun 21, 2016

trythis said:
When I run out of this kit, I may try that. You dont have to make 20L at once...I hope. I'd like to know what all comes in that package, the web site just shows a box.
How long do the components last?
They shipped my order of 1 with no questions. I read about the leaking issues and hope that does not happen. It arrives tomorrow, so we will see.

I mix 1 gallon at a time. For the opened bottles I use wine preserver (gas can) and they have not gone bad on me yet. You can also try some official preservatives like Protectan. Inside the developer box, you'll find 3 bottles with parts A, B, and C. You can use the starter you have now - you'll have a lot left from 5L Hope that F2 unit arrives in good condition!

Richard Man said:
I use their separate bleach and fix, not for F2. I buy them 6 jugs each at a time. I have been using them for ~8 months now. Works great

I'm interested to find out links for bleach as well, can you post here?

trythis · Jun 22, 2016

What I received in the mail:

bvy · Jun 22, 2016

Looks about right. Make sure nothing is leaking, discolored or egregiously out of date. I also had no trouble ordering the F2 package in spite of what some others have reported. Good luck!

pbo · Jun 22, 2016

Nice, glad everything arrived intact. Now, happy mixing and developing!

Btw - hope you're not planning to one shot your bleach and fixer, that stuff is dear. Final rinse too - that little bottle doesn't make much.

bvy · Jun 22, 2016

pbo said:
Btw - hope you're not planning to one shot your bleach and fixer, that stuff is dear. Final rinse too - that little bottle doesn't make much.

Right. You're more likely to have to replace your bleach due to gradual attrition than because it goes bad. Final rinse should be discarded when it becomes discolored or "dirty." If it discolors too fast (after a few rolls) it's a sign of carryover. Increase your rinse times.

trythis · Jun 23, 2016

Everything is in good shape, the F2 containers seem very well designed. The box is solid but this lids look weak. All the bottles seem to be made from HDPE (2) instead of PETE which everyone says is better for O2 resistance. The bleach and fix will be reused. I have a bunch of little bottles of hypo check fixing tester.
Now to find mixing instructions that are better than whats on the bottle. Will find the Kodak PDF

pbo · Jun 23, 2016

bvy said:
Final rinse should be discarded when it becomes discolored or "dirty."

Interesting - I replenish at 30ml per 24exp roll of 35mm film and that has worked fine, too.

trythis said:
Now to find mixing instructions that are better than whats on the bottle. Will find the Kodak PDF

Check out cis49-2009_12. It has instructions to mix smaller amounts than the 5L/20L total package volume.
Specific lines for your developer concentrate are in Table 2 - Line 2, Developer LU Replenisher LORR.
Then, look at Table 4 for amount of water and starter to add to concentrate for working (aka "tank") solution. Warning - some math is required

sfaber17 · Jun 23, 2016

trythis said:
Everything is in good shape, the F2 containers seem very well designed. The box is solid but this lids look weak. All the bottles seem to be made from HDPE (2) instead of PETE which everyone says is better for O2 resistance. The bleach and fix will be reused. I have a bunch of little bottles of hypo check fixing tester.
Now to find mixing instructions that are better than whats on the bottle. Will find the Kodak PDF

I thought PET was better than HDPE for oxygen resistance. It is most important for the developer part C, which doesn't look like an HDPE bottle, is it?

bvy · Jun 23, 2016

pbo said:
Check out cis49-2009_12. It has instructions to mix smaller amounts than the 5L/20L total package volume.

The first sentence of that document says it all. If consistency is important to you (it is to me) mix the developer all at once. My experience is that the working solution keeps for a long time when stored in bottles filled to capacity. That small Part C bottle is CD4, and it strikes me that it’s much harder to keep such a critical and volatile chemical viable in such small quantities. I also don’t trust myself to measure the same way every time. This setup makes less than two gallons of developer -- it shouldn’t require a weekend project to make storage space for it.

trythis · Jun 23, 2016

sfaber17 said:
I thought PET was better than HDPE for oxygen resistance. It is most important for the developer part C, which doesn't look like an HDPE bottle, is it?

Actually part C is in dark brown PETE #1 plastic. Thats the only bottle made if that.

Wayne · Jun 23, 2016

That's probably about the ONLY chemical shipped in PET. Virtually all liquid photochemicals come in #2.

trythis said:
ctually part C is in dark brown PETE #1 plastic. Thats the only bottle made if tha

trythis · Jul 21, 2016

I am hoping to mix and start developing this weekend or early next week. Once I have mixed my replenisher, do I add the starter to all of it or just to the portion I plan to use?

The instructions on the starter bottle show :

LORR
763ml Replenisher + 30ml starter + 207 ml water = 1L

non LORR
860ml developer + 18 ml starter + 122 ml water =1L

Which approach will prolong shelf life of the mixed replenisher? I am planning to use a 1L container 1 shot (I will test for reuse as well), and mix the liter every time I develop but I could mix it all at once. I will be using the bleach and fix many times as well as the stabilizer.

Also, do you just shake the crap out of the container to aerate the bleach during bleaching? Can the film be exposed to light at this point?

Edit, just found the schedule for the lorr replenisher and that seems easy enough as a way to save a lot of money instead of guessing at using the stuff twice. Page 4 below:
http://www.kodak.com/global/plugins/acrobat/en/service/Zmanuals/z131_03.pdf
The listed capacity for non replenished LORR listed on page 5 is terrible...one 220 roll per liter? YIKES!

RPC · Jul 22, 2016

You can mix as much replenisher as you want and then add the proper amount of starter and water to all that you have mixed.

I always have always mixed all of the replenisher in a kit at once, along with the correct amount of starter and water. I store it in glass canning jars filled to the top and sealed tightly. This way, it lasts months, even years.

I do not replenish, so can't comment there.

trythis · Jul 22, 2016

I forget that only the replenisher is tossed and that the rest will last a lot longer. $14 for 6 rolls of 220 is not bad, but if I replenish it should last quite a bit longer. I know the chemicals will not be perfect without test strips.

bvy · Jul 22, 2016

Don't let the names confuse you. If you bought the chemicals I suggested, there's no replenishing involved. Mix all 5 liters of the developer/replenisher, then add starter in the proportions described (something like 200ml of starter to 1350ml of water). You end up with ~6.5 liters of working solution. You'll have starter left over but will consume the entire 5 liter kit. Store it in glass or thick plastic bottles (with good lids!) filled to capacity. My experience is it will keep at least a year this way. I use 600ml bottles, but if one liter bottles suit you, that's fine too.

The bleach, yes, shake the hell out of it. You'll probably want it only half full in its bottle for this to be effective. Also, I uncap the bottle between shakes to allow the air in the bottle to circulate and cycle. There's probably a better way.

sfaber17 · Jul 22, 2016

trythis said:
Also, do you just shake the crap out of the container to aerate the bleach during bleaching? Can the film be exposed to light at this point?

I would shake before using not while bleaching the film. It is better to bubble air with a tube (aquarium stone isn't recommended though). I think you could expose it to light at that point.

rpavich · Jul 22, 2016

You are really going to like this method. BVY was very helpful to me when I did this a week or two ago and It was a HUGE step up in negative quality from a blix kit.

bvy · Jul 22, 2016

sfaber17 said:
I would shake before using not while bleaching the film. It is better to bubble air with a tube (aquarium stone isn't recommended though). I think you could expose it to light at that point.

Missed that. Yes, I shake it up when I'm prepping the chemicals. An air tube is a good idea.

rpavich said:
You are really going to like this method. BVY was very helpful to me when I did this a week or two ago and It was a HUGE step up in negative quality from a blix kit.

Happy to help. Just sharing what has worked for me the past couple years.

Giving BVY's flexicolorC-41 chemical list a try!

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