Getting the density/brightness right

[tkamiya]

I have a full gamut LCD panel that is calibrated with a Spyder.

Between my image and prints (from Bayphoto lab done without any changes), colors are always right but brightness is not. Prints are always darker. Shadow details are often gone. My panel is calibrated to 100 cd/mm^2. (I think that's the right unit...)

Using ViewNX2 with "SoftProof", using profile from the lab still doesn't help much. It has been difficult to correctly guess what the print will look like both in luminance and loss of shadow details.

This is a BROAD question.... I'm sure I'm doing something wrong. HELP!

By the way, I know NX2 isn't the best option for image editing but I like it. I only need help with this density and brightness piece.

Thanks.

 

[L Gebhardt]

I calibrate at a brightness of 80cd to get the prints to the right brightness.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I have a full gamut LCD panel that is calibrated with a Spyder.

Between my image and prints (from Bayphoto lab done without any changes), colors are always right but brightness is not. Prints are always darker. Shadow details are often gone. My panel is calibrated to 100 cd/mm^2. (I think that's the right unit...)

Using ViewNX2 with "SoftProof", using profile from the lab still doesn't help much. It has been difficult to correctly guess what the print will look like both in luminance and loss of shadow details.

This is a BROAD question.... I'm sure I'm doing something wrong. HELP!

By the way, I know NX2 isn't the best option for image editing but I like it. I only need help with this density and brightness piece.

Thanks.

I had a similar problem and fixed it by doing a luminance calibration by printing and measuring s digital step tablet. from that,You can make a correction curve,which you use on your image prior to printing.You need a densitometer but ,other than that,It's a piece of cake. I even automated it in a spreadsheet, which I'm happy to post here.:cool2:

 

[Pioneer]

I had a similar problem and fixed it by doing a luminance calibration by printing and measuring s digital step tablet. from that,You can make a correction curve,which you use on your image prior to printing.You need a densitometer but ,other than that,It's a piece of cake. I even automated it in a spreadsheet, which I'm happy to post here.:cool2:

Love to see the spreadsheet when you get a spare moment Ralph.

 

[Alan Klein]

I calibrate at a brightness of 80cd to get the prints to the right brightness.

Larry Do you edit from the beginning at 80cd? Or do you edit everything at a higher value first then change to 80cd and tweak from there?

 

[L Gebhardt]

Larry Do you edit from the beginning at 80cd? Or do you edit everything at a higher value first then change to 80cd and tweak from there?

I edit with the monitor at 80cd. In fact I just leave it set to that all the time now since I find it easy on the eyes. My office is also not brightly lit so it's easy to see, even though it seems dim based on the number.

 

[indigo]

So if your white point is either 100 or 80 Cd/m^2 then what do you choose for the luminance of the black point?

 

[L Gebhardt]

So if your white point is either 100 or 80 Cd/m^2 then what do you choose for the luminance of the black point?

My calibration settings in SpectraView II are:
White Point: 4500K
Intensity: 80 cd/m^2
Contrast Ratio (Black Level): Default
Gamma: 2.2
Color Gamut: Native (full)

So the luminance of the black point will depend on the monitor. On mine it measures at .18 cd/m^2 for a contrast ratio of 437:1. I could choose a lower contrast ratio, but that would not improve the matching of the prints.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Love to see the spreadsheet when you get a spare moment Ralph.

will do

 

[Bob Carnie]

The most accurate way to know if your images are correct are to understand the info palette and the numbers.

LAB is what I use with a eyedropper pixel of 3.. over time you can determine all areas of your images and if they are consistently dark or light the numbers will tell you , there is no doubt
that a Highlight with detail reading of L 94 will print with detail on any media, and a Shadow with detail reading of L 6 will also print.

I like LAB as once you learn the numbers they correspond to the Zone System of 10 unit values 0 - 100 and the A B represents for colour workers the Magenta and Yellow dial on a colour enlarger.

I never look at RGB numbers as I have found LAB to be the bomb for me.

Bob

 

[markbarendt]

Interesting all the old posts popping up.

The answer to the OP's question is provided by the lab itself https://support.bayphoto.com/customer/portal/articles/2144592

Tkamiya isn't (wasn't) using PhotoShop or LightRoom.

Expecting ViewNX2 and PS to behave the same, is like asking Portra to act like Velvia. Both can be gorgeous, but they aren't twins.

NX2 can be used first then PS or LR can be used for the final prep.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Love to see the spreadsheet when you get a spare moment Ralph.

as promised