getting started (tutorials ?)

[bonk]

I think I now have everything to develop films by myself. I have a Jobo 2000 developer can that can take 3 Rolls of MF film. The film is T-MAX 100. As the developer I have X-Tol, Stop Bath is ILFORD ILOFOSTOP, fixer is A 300 from Calbe Chemie Germany, wetting agent is Tetenal Mirasol 2000. Brackets and weights to hang the films are there and I have a changing bag and gloves.

Now the last time I developed films myself was in 1989 and I am not sure if I still remember everything correctly. Of course it isn't any problem to mix the chemicals but the rest is a little vague. Do you know of any good online documents that I can trust that take me through the process of developing film? Generally I am a but unsure about the following things, maybe you can help me out:

1. How exact do the temperatures of the liquids really have to be? Do I need to develop exactly at 21°C ? Do I need a thermometer? What if the temperature of the liquids drop a little while developing/fixing, what is the best way to heat it up again (if that is necessary at all)? How does processing times change when temperature is lower/higher that suggested?

2. How do I tilt the can correctly when a) developer b) stop bath c) fixer is inside?

3. How do I rinse correctly and how often? I have a hose that I can plug the can and to the faucet, how long do I rinse using this technique instead?

4. My Jobo 2000 can can take up to three MF films. Do I have to completetly fill the can even if just one film is loaded? If I tilt the can, the film will be temporarily not surrounded by the chemicals if the the can is not completely filled ...

5. Its: pre-rinse -> devloper -> stop bath -> fixer -> post-rinse -> rinse with wetting agent -> drying, correct?

 

[Ian Grant]

Go and look on the Ilford website, plenty of info for you.

Dead Link Removed its wreitten just for you

Ian

 

[Neal]

Hello Bonk,

1) Temperature is very important. The good news is that the Xtol data sheet has starting times for many films at a wide range of temperatures. Let everything come up to room temperature, measure the temperature and process accordingly.

2) Simply put the advised amount of fluid in (I usually round up to the nearest 100ml), place the tank on whatever apparatus you have for rolling and go to it.

3) There was a good thread recently on this question.

4) By a "Jobo 2000" I assume you mean a 255X series drum. The drum is designed to be rolled. Use the recommended volume from the side of the tank (this varies mainly depending on whether or not you load one or two rolls per reel).

5) Yes.

By the way, if my assumptions concerning your tank and agitation method are incorrect, ignore the above.

Neal Wydra

 

[Ian Grant]

Neal your reply is full of errors.

1. Room temperature is only important in deciding whether you need to use a water bath to cool or warm the developing tank, and that's only important when the weathers extremely cold, or hot.

2. Not everyone roller processes their films.

3. See the Ilford site.

4. The 2000 Series tank is a 2000 Series tank and not a 255X series drum. They weren't specifically designed for roller processing althogh they can be used taht way. In the 30+ years I've owned mine I've never stuck it on a roller system.

5. No, it under-states the washing phase, again see the Ilford Website.

Ian

 

[bonk]

Yes the Jobo 2000 is an old one and it is a tank that is not to be rolled. I thought I have to tilt (turn it upside down fequently somehow). So I am still not sure about question 2. and 4.

 

[Ian Grant]

Ok

The 2000 tank is designed for inversion agitation. It need enough developer to adequately cover the reels, which should be held in place with clip which stops them riding up & down the column.

Agitation is usually continuous inversions for the first 30 second / minute followed by two or 3 inversions of the tank ever minute afterwards. (Inversion is turning the tank upside down).

Ian

 

[Neal]

Hi Ian,

A few notes:

1) I really think that whether or not you use a bath, knowing the temperature of your system and developing accordingly is still important. I agree that I should have been more clear as I assumed bonk would measure the temperature of his developer rather than the air.

2) & 4) I think my "disclaimer" at the bottom covers me, but thank you for informing me about the Jobo 2000 tanks.

3) While the Ilford site has great information, the thread was on APUG.

5) To me, at least, his question concerned sequence and did not mention specific times for any of the steps.

Neal Wydra

 

[juan]

With regard to temperature, it is more important that you be consistent than that you develop at an exact temperature. For instance, if the directions say to develop at 20C but your darkroom is 22C, developing at the higher temperature is fine. You'll just have to develop for a little shorter time - and you'll have to test to find out how much shorter. Just be sure that you always develop at the same time and temperature - the one that works for you.

As for the changes in developer temperature during development, how much does it change? If it's a degree or two, and this change would happen every time you develop, it doesn't matter. Again, you need to find out what works in your darkroom. If the change in temperature is more than that, I'd suggest you adjust the initial developer temperature to something closer to room temperature. As a general rule, I've found that adjusting time is easier than fighting temperature (all within reason, of course.) Read the Ilford site.
juan

 

[dancqu]

...wetting agent is Tetenal Mirasol 2000.
Brackets and weights to hang ...

After I've wetted using half strength Photo Flo then
hung I squeegee using the eight blade Jobo film squeegee.
A slow uninterrupted even pressured draw from top to
bottom ensures quick drying.

That Jobo goes by other brand names. It replaced my
Yankee sponge squeegee which off and on over the
years helped quick dry many rolls of film. Dan

 

[bonk]

When I tilt (agitate) the tank and the tank is not fully filled with developer/fixer, at the moment the tank is turned updside down, the film will not be covered by the developer/fixer. Isn't that problematic? Shouldn't I always completely fill tank even if there is only one roll inside?

 

[bonk]

After I've wetted using half strength Photo Flo then
hung I squeegee using the eight blade Jobo film squeegee.
A slow uninterrupted even pressured draw from top to
bottom ensures quick drying.

That Jobo goes by other brand names. It replaced my
Yankee sponge squeegee which off and on over the
years helped quick dry many rolls of film. Dan

I am trying to find that squeegee you are talking about. Is it this one?

 

[dancqu]

I am trying to find that squeegee you are talking about.

That one is a single blade wall paper and/or print squeegee.
May do for windows as well. The eight blade film squeegee is
a very well designed tool and marketed under various names.

A couple of notes on it's use. With the film out of the Photo
Flo I soak and rinse the squeegee. After using, water rinse, dry,
then store in a dust free space. I'll check to see who carries the
Jobo or same. Not cheap, maybe $15 to $18. Dan

 

[dancqu]

A couple of notes on it's use. With the film out of the Photo
Flo I soak and rinse the squeegee. After using, water rinse, dry,
then store in a dust free space. I'll check to see who carries the
Jobo or same. Not cheap, maybe $15 to $18. Dan

Forgot to shop. B&H has a large selection of film and paper
squeegees and photo grade sponges. They do have the Jobo
and at quick glance the same eight blade by other names.
Very likely other outlets have the Jobo or other name.

BTW, I sponge dry prints and squeegee dry film. Be sure to
Photo Flo prior to squeegeeing. A water rinse only makes for an
impossible squeegeeing. Found that out a couple of nights ago
testing. A breeze with Photo Flo first. Those that squeegee
prints might take note. Dan