Getting into LF for less than £300

Lachlan Young · Apr 2, 2006

How easy is is to get into LF for less than £300 (my total disposable funds if I sell a few lenses and other bits and pieces)? I am wondering if I should try the new Bulldog camera from Camera Bellows - however I am not especially attracted to 4x5. I much prefer 5x7 or 8x10. This is so that I can get away with contact printing - so much easier and cheaper!
I imagine the Kodak Ektars or their eqivalents would be good choices - I would probably want a lens of about 300mm for either 5x7 or 8x10. Finally, I much prefer the 'technical' style of camera for 5x7 and the 'field' or 'view' style for 8x10 - this is purely for aesthetic reasons!

Of course if anyone wants to exchange a Zuiko 75mm-150mm f4 zoom, a Vivitar 55mm f2.8 macro, a Tokina RMC 28-85mm f4 zoom(all for Olympus OM) and a Bronica ETRS & 80mm f2.8 EII with an occasionally sticky shutter release for something suitable I am always ready to do a deal!!

All help much appreciated,
Lachlan

David A. Goldfarb · Apr 2, 2006

With an older 4x5" monorail or press camera, you can do it within your budget, and you'll have a pretty wide choice of options. 4x5" can make fine contact prints, and you'll have the option of Polaroid as a learning tool.

5x7"?--Maybe if you shop around. Some older wooden cameras mainly oriented toward portrait photography (i.e.--not too many movements) can be had inexpensively.

8x10"?--Well, if you stick to wooden filmholders and find a camera that needs some repair that you can do yourself, it's a possibility, but consider ongoing film costs.

Lachlan Young · Apr 2, 2006

I should have said that 3.25x4.25 also appealed but that the problems of having to cut down film from 5x4 seemed a bit of a waste of money (I know that there are a few emulsions are available in quarter plate pre-cut but none are faster than ISO 200).

Lachlan

Peter Black · Apr 2, 2006

Hi Lachlan
When you reach the point where you just have to have a 5x4 enlarger, PM me for a bargain!

smieglitz · Apr 2, 2006

That Bulldog camera was very limited in extension IIRC so unless you were only doing wide-angle 4x5 landscapes, I'd pass on it.

You can pick up a decent 4x5 Calumet 400 series monorail for $125 on eBay and many good older lenses for $150 on a good day. That leaves you plenty for holders, etc. Other field cameras that can be had cheap are Burke and James models and Agfa-Ansco wooden views. And I agree with you on the contact print part. Better I think to get a 5x7 rather than 4x5. B&J and Agfa 5x7 are relatively inexpensive. The latter are much more stable though IMO.

I just sold a 5x7 Agfa sans lens for a friend for $240. I have another with two backs and a case that I may be putting up for sale soon so keep an eye on the classifieds. I need to see if I have a decent 5x7 lens to part with.

Joe

127 · Apr 2, 2006

I put together a system for £250 last year (mainly from ebay, in the UK). £120 for an old monorail on ebay. £50 for a lens/shutter. £40 for a tripod (my regular one wouldn't be up to the job), and £20 for a replacement rail clamp, with enough change left for a box of film...

That was 5x4. I'm not sure you'll be able to put something bigger together for that sort of cash. Also if you're on a budget, then film is far cheaper in 5x4...

Ian

Lachlan Young · Apr 3, 2006

Having given some more thought to this issue I think I will probably go down the route of either 1/4 plate or 5x7. If I eventually choose 1/4 plate I think I will go down the Graflex route and buy either a 1/4 plate speed Graphic or an RB Series D SLR (if I choose the SLR route which of the varied models is best?). If however I choose the 5x7 route I was wondering whether to look out for a Graflex SLR or for a Linhof Technika (without rangefinder) - which is better and STRONGER ?
As for lenses, in both formats I think something like the Ektar 203mm f7.7 would be a very good idea as well as being very cheap. I was also wondering if I should look out for (I think) either a LOMO or INDUSTAR 210mm lens. If I were to go down the 5x7 route I was wondering whether looking out for a Schneider Xenar 300mm f4.5 would be a good idea or not. Finally, I notice in a recent thread (there was a url link here which no longer exists) about Edward Weston there is mention of a 'Heliar' type lens. Who, apart from Voigtlander, made these lenses, what sort of focal lengths were they available in, and approximately how much would one cost?

All your help will be much appreciated,
Lachlan

bart Nadeau · Apr 3, 2006

If you are going to go with a 34 Graflex, look for a Super D first and an Auto
Graflex second. The Super D was made into the 1960's and features a semi automatic, very sharp Kodak Ektar 152. Only the Super D's have this feature.
The advantage of the Auto Graflex (production stopped about 1941) is they have a very long bellows and can be used as a tripod camera too. Both have revolving backs and 34 Graflex roll holders were made for 2x2 and 2x3.
12 shot bag magazines in useable condition are very reasonable.

Take a look a www.graflex.com

MattCarey · Apr 3, 2006

Here is my cheapskate LF setup:

Century #1 8x10 with additional 5x7 back ($130 plus the cost of a Satin Snow GG for the 5x7 back). Very old 27cm Dagor with packard shutter (about $120--I think I overpaid). 8x10 holders stolen from my brother's "are these light-tight" stack, but wood holders can be had for something like $10. 5x7 holders purchased from fine APUGers for cheap (more stolen from my brother...)

So, about US$300 for an 8x10/5x7 setup before film. The camera has limited front movements (OK, it only has rise/fall).

Matt

marktweedie · Apr 3, 2006

I started with a Pacemaker Speed Graphic 5x4 from ebay (£150) including a DDS and half box of FP4. This was enough for me to experiment and realise I wanted a body with more movements and a better lens. Result: the "cheap" option cost me £650! (But worth every penny twice over). You can get into LF for a lot less than your £300 but it may take you to more expensive places....You can also get a Paterson Orbital processor for about £30 which will allow developing of 4 sheets at a time very economically and which is much cheaper to buy than an old Dallan/Yankee type tank which use more chemicals. The Paterson will let you dev 10x8 in future if you go larger. I tried home-made BTZS tubes too at a cost of about £25 but found they kept damaging my negs.

The Speed Graphic is in the classifieds if you want to make an offer, otherwise it's off to Ebay in a couple of days.

Good luck and go for it - you won't regret it.

Mark

Ole · Apr 3, 2006

Lachlan Young said:
... If however I choose the 5x7 route I was wondering whether to look out for a Graflex SLR or for a Linhof Technika (without rangefinder) - which is better and STRONGER ?

I've shot a 5x7" Technika. It is strong enough to drive a medium-size tank over. But how often do you need that? Strong=Heavy, unfortunately. I've swapped to a (relatively) lightweight Gandolfi Traditional.

Lachlan Young said:
As for lenses, in both formats I think something like the Ektar 203mm f7.7 would be a very good idea as well as being very cheap. I was also wondering if I should look out for (I think) either a LOMO or INDUSTAR 210mm lens.

LOMO and Industar lenses don't, as a rule, have shutters. Very nice if you have a focal plane shutter, a lot more difficult to use without. Mounting them in a shutter is likely to cost far more than an equally good lens in shutter.

Lachlan Young said:
If I were to go down the 5x7 route I was wondering whether looking out for a Schneider Xenar 300mm f4.5 would be a good idea or not.

IF you have a camera strong enough to handle 1 kg of lens, and lensboards large enough to take the Compound #5 shutter. The Technika 5x7" can barely do it, and there are few stronger cameras.

Lachlan Young said:
Finally, I notice in a recent thread (there was a url link here which no longer exists) about Edward Weston there is mention of a 'Heliar' type lens. Who, apart from Voigtlander, made these lenses, what sort of focal lengths were they available in, and approximately how much would one cost?

All your help will be much appreciated,
Lachlan

Heliar lenses were to the best of my knowledge only made by Voigtlander. They were made for a very long time, in a lot of focal lengths and modifications. I have seen 105mm, own 120mm and 150mm, and have also seen 180, 210, 240, 270, 300, 360, 420, 480 and know of 540, 600, 720, 950 and 1100mm. Of course not all these can be mounted in shutters...

For 5x7", you would be looking for something between 180 and 300mm. The 300mm can be found in the same #5 shutter as the 300mm Xenar, and is even a little bit heavier.

There is also the "Universal Heliar", which has an adjustable soft focus. And the Apo-Lanthar, which is of the same basic construction, but costs 8 times as much...

dianna · Apr 4, 2006

Something I didn't take budget for when I switched to LF recently was developing tank, film dryer, & printfile sheets. I'm limited to processing in daylight, and after buying my camera and lens I didn't have enough money left for the Jobo tank/reel and ended up getting a Yankee tank which is adequate for now. I wouldn't recommend the Yankee, though - it's messy and prone to give uneven development. My husband built a home-made film dryer out of a plastic bread canister, tie wraps, and a hairdryer. I hang it on the kitchen door and hide it when I'm not using it. It really gets some interesting looks if people come over and we forget to put it away. With that and all the chemistry bottles on our kitchen counter, it looks like we're running a drug lab.

I chose a press camera (Graflex) because I wanted to be able to shoot handheld as well as on a tripod, and it was the most inexpensive way to get started with LF. I love the camera and I'll keep it even after I buy a serious LF camera some day.

Richard Kelham · Apr 6, 2006

You should be able to pick up a half plate Kodak Specialist or similar, a 203mm Ektar, a few film holders and maybe have enough left out of your £300 for a decent S/H tripod (if you shop around). You will probably be stuck with dish development though...

Richard

Getting into LF for less than £300

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Getting into LF for less than £300

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