Getting better at slide exposure?

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GarageBoy

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A few years back, I purchased a bunch of 400x provia because I love the way it renders skin tone and blue twilight scenes. On the other hand, I've wasted at least 3 rolls of this expensive stuff with landscapes- seems like I like contrasty scenes too much and end up blowing something out... I've been using my f100s spotmeter and trying to keep the highlights within 2 - 3 stops or so, but the images look "too bright"? Well, I have 7 rolls left, any tips?
 

Les Sarile

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If you like contrasty scenesand now that you are aware of Provia 400x's latitude, you will need to decide whether to limit shooting scenes to the latitude of the film or live with the narrow latitude - making sure the important areas are well exposed, or you will have to use wider latitude films like practically any color C41.

BTW, I have shot quite a few rolls of Provia 400X and don't find that I am blowing out highlights unexpectedly. Unless perhaps you are talking about shiny objects - high reflectivity, under strong light?
 

thuggins

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It is not that hard to properly expose slides, but it is important to be observant and aware of the light. Go for a day with even light, especially to start. A cloudless day is best. Nothing is more frustrating than watching a scene change two stops in less than a second. Also, a clear, blue sky meters about the same as the ground that it illuminates.

Lose the spot meter and and forget about "...trying to keep the highlights within 2-3 stops or so...". If your camera has a center weighted meter, preferably Thru the Lens, use it. Otherwise, use a standard reflective meter. With a handheld meter, bias it toward the ground; it is easy to pick up too much sky. Once you have take hundreds of properly exposed slides you can break out the spot meter again and start working with more complexly lit scenes.

Pick an average scene, evenly lit, with the sun somewhere around 45 degrees or so behind you. Look for overly dark areas or specular reflections that will effect the metering and the final image. Shoot between mid/late morning to mid/late afternoon, depending on the time of year. Forget about that "magic, crepuscular light" for now; it is very challenging to get a good shot under those conditions.

Just don't overthink it. I shot two rolls today with seventy year old cameras. The meter was a sixty year old selenium cell Ikophot, which I only checked a couple of times. The sun was high, there was a bit of haze, it was an f11 day and that's where the aperture stayed. The pictures all came out beautiful.
 

Les Sarile

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Lose the spot meter and and forget about "...trying to keep the highlights within 2-3 stops or so...".

The sun was high, there was a bit of haze, it was an f11 day and that's where the aperture stayed. The pictures all came out beautiful.

Lose the spot meter
. . . how about understand how it works and how much latitude the film has and shoot accordingly. Fact is every film has it's range and spot metering is the best way to qualify what is in and what is out of range as opposed to an averaging meter - or other, that makes the decision for you. Then you can decide for yourself - as opposed to the camera, what is important and what can fall where they may given the film's specific range.

I could say that nobody should ever shoot with an overhead sun because there will never be any beautiful pictures from it . . .
 

tomfrh

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I use spot meter with slide film and find it works fairly well.

With slide film you have about 5 or 6 stops to work with. If you aim at zone 5, then anything more than ~2.5 stops brighter will be blown out, and anything less than ~2.5 stops under will be pretty much black. That's why it's so easy to get a mess. If you're putting your highlights "2-3" stops over, then don't be suprised if you've blown them. This is why people often use ND grads with slide film, to dial down the sky, and fit a contrasty scene into 5-6 stops.

I find the trick with exposing is to learn what the meter should say for something to render properly (e.g. white cloud +2.5, pastels +1.5, caucasion skin +1.0, primary colours +0, dark colours -1, very dark, -2...). Then you just have to decide what you care most about most in the scene, and target that accordingly.
 
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I've had huge improvements by simply using a digital camera as a meter. I used an A7 and my consistency with exposure went WAY up.

Also, reflected metering works best in my experience. With your F100 I would use the matrix meter, and bracket.
 

Sirius Glass

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Rather than using a spot meter, use a good matrix reflectance meter.
 

destroya

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Rather than using a spot meter, use a good matrix reflectance meter.

I found out the hard way. Now, I just trust the matrix meters in my nikons and pentax cameras. I took several shots of the same scene, back to back with my pentax 67ii using the matrix meter, and my fuji 6x8 rangefinder, using an incident meter reading. The pentax exposures were the best for every shot on all 4 rolls. So I now keep it simple. Slide film, matrix meter. My friend calls me lazy , but im a realist. If it gets me the best results, who cares how I got it?
 

tomfrh

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A matrix meter is simply a bunch of spot meters, which are evaluated by the camera. So I'm not sure why people are say spot metering is no good.

You may as well say manual gearboxes are no good, and the answer is you have to drive automatics.
 

chriscrawfordphoto

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I can't believe no one has suggested an incident light meter yet. In most situations, an incident meter will give a perfect exposure no matter how light or dark the subject is.
 

Alan9940

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I always use my Sekonic L-558 when shooting slide film. I meter the scene for the highest values where I expect to maintain detail and put that reading into memory, then I do the same with shadows values. Then, I hit the average button which gives me a solid reading to then further evaluate the scene using the EV difference characteristic that this meter provides. Many times I need to adjust my original exposure determination, but I'm rarely off on my exposure such that it ruins the shot. When shooting 8x10 Velvia I really don't want to have a bad exposure, if I can help it! :wink: Sounds like a lot of steps, but it's very fast once you're comfortable with the process.
 

markbarendt

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Giggle.

No metering system sucks, they all work just fine as long as they are in good repair.

The thing 'that sucks' about ANY meter is that the human using the meter needs to understand how that meter behaves, what is being measured, and how that relates to the final result.
 

FujiLove

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Assuming you're in the same light as the subject!

I use my incident meter (highlight meter) + put brain in gear. It's usually fairly obvious when you need to add or subtract a stop or two. I understand that in theory you need to be in exactly the same light as the subject, but in practice, I can't recall it ever being a problem.

Slide film + incident meter = perfect exposures.
 

Craig75

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Giggle.

No metering system sucks, they all work just fine as long as they are in good repair.

The thing 'that sucks' about ANY meter is that the human using the meter needs to understand how that meter behaves, what is being measured, and how that relates to the final result.

This . And tom's words.
 

trendland

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A few years back, I purchased a bunch of 400x provia because I love the way it renders skin tone and blue twilight scenes. On the other hand, I've wasted at least 3 rolls of this expensive stuff with landscapes- seems like I like contrasty scenes too much and end up blowing something out... I've been using my f100s spotmeter and trying to keep the highlights within 2 - 3 stops or so, but the images look "too bright"? Well, I have 7 rolls left, any tips?

Never mind GarageBoy because best experts failed from time to time a bit with
E6 exposures.
The very simple reason is : with c41 you can make much much more corrections.
By development /printing.
Your abilities are restricted with E6 !
You only can corect exposure while shooting.
You system of messurement is allways stupid. Electronic can't make a difference
to sunlight out of different directions.
It is on you. Your messurement is just your assistence to exposure.
Therefore you have to unterstand : "You are the chief - make it allways clear to messured issues your system told you"
But this need 3 things :
1.) experience 2.) experience 3.) experience.
Try and error will help you .

Notice : Messurements could never be
100% correct.

But when you are good with E6 you will
easily "play" with c41 And you will shot
bw with "CLOSED EYES"......:smile:

with regards
 

Sirius Glass

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Rather than using a spot meter, use a good matrix reflectance meter.

I found out the hard way. Now, I just trust the matrix meters in my nikons and pentax cameras. I took several shots of the same scene, back to back with my pentax 67ii using the matrix meter, and my fuji 6x8 rangefinder, using an incident meter reading. The pentax exposures were the best for every shot on all 4 rolls. So I now keep it simple. Slide film, matrix meter. My friend calls me lazy , but im a realist. If it gets me the best results, who cares how I got it?

I have had great slide and print exposures from Minoltas, Nikons, and Hasselblad cameras. I am sure the to brands too.
 
OP
OP

GarageBoy

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I think it's mainly me not matching the scene to the film. Can't have both a dramatic sunset and the building in front of it as a midtone...
 

KenS

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Before retirement, my 'real deal' for slide film for so many years as a 'working photographer', was an incident light meter. Or.... when using my spot meter, I would 'read' a "White with Texture" and open up 3 and 1/3 stops (i.e. place the 'white with texture' on Zone VIII+1/3).

Ken
 

Chan Tran

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Giggle.

No metering system sucks, they all work just fine as long as they are in good repair.

The thing 'that sucks' about ANY meter is that the human using the meter needs to understand how that meter behaves, what is being measured, and how that relates to the final result.

Yes Matrix sucks because I don't know how it works. Do you know?
 

markbarendt

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Yes Matrix sucks because I don't know how it works. Do you know?
I have a general idea of 'how it works', but a pretty good idea of where it behaves best. Fill flash for one. General shooting on walkabout where I simply want to point and shoot without worry. When I hand the camera to my son. It is incredibly reliable in these and most other situations, but it can be fooled.

Doing better than simply pointing a Matrix meter at the composition requires real thought and understanding about what you want, the situation, and what the meter is telling you.
 

MattKing

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