...am now looking to get back to rangefinders. I intend to use the camera for quiet situations and for when I want just something light and small. Lens-wise I intend to use either the Voigtlander 40/1.4 or a Zeiss/Leica 50. No other focal lengths.
I have never used the Leica M3 or the Bessa R3A. I have only used the Leica M6, Leica M1, Contax G1, and the Canonet.
"The Contax G1/G2 is a great camera with great lenses. It is an autofocus, aperture-priority, motor-drive camera that can be used in full manual mode (not the film advance). The big difference for me is in the viewfinder. The Contax viewfinder is smaller (.57 with a 40mm lens, I believe) and positioned closer to the middle top of the body, sometimes confusing if you switch between a Leica (and most other rangefinders) and the Contax. On the plus side is the viewfinder zooms to match the lens (except the 21mm) rather than using bright lines like the Leica--and there is built-in diopter correction. A display visible in the viewfinder shows distance and shutter speed. The G1 sometimes has problems with autofocus, and won't fire. Manual focus is not as quick as a rangefinder (it's not a rangefinder camera). I'm pretty sure it will only take Zeiss Contax lenses, but they are all excellent. And film loading is easier, with a hinged back.
The Contax also has a very small squinty vf in comparison to a Leica or Bessa.Contax is a great camera, the only "but" is it's all electronic. All the Leicas upto and including M6ttl are pure mechanical, the battery is for the light meter.
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I agree, the gripe I have is the MP is a M6ttl with a crappy rewind knob, and it's only available with. 72x finder. 5 grand in the US. If I was rich, I would love to try a M digital model, but I spent all my surplus funds on a gently used Nikon D5. Fun, but it sounds like a machine gun at 12 fps.The Contax also has a very small squinty vf in comparison to a Leica or Bessa.
The current film Leicas in production MA and MP are pure mechanical devices too.
If you are going to use a 40 you might want to consider a Minolta CLE which has 40mm framelines. They are a lot less expensive than a M3.
I've had an M3 for a really long time. I think it is best with a 90mm. My advice would be to get a camera that has a wider frameline than the focal length you want to use. The whole point of rangefinders is you can see outside your image to choose what to put in it. A Leica M2 or M4/M4-2/M4-P would be the way to go if you want a Leica.
Hope that helps.
If you want ULTRA QUIET (dead silent) and can tolerate a 35/2 lens that's beyond Voigtlander....certainly in Summicron league...there's Konica Hexar AF.... there's a learning curve ... you can see an example on my Media (a cattle auction).
I’ve owned the Bessa R3a alongside my Leicas. I sold it after a few weeks as after the novelty of new camera wore off, I could not see picking it over an M3 to shoot with. The M3’s Vf is just perfect for 50mm lenses, the rf patch is larger, the camera is much smoother and quieter to use and quite frankly is just a joy to handle.
If you are going to use a 40mm lens on it, just compose outside the frame lines.
Yes, on the M3 it does not flare. It also is bigger (IIRC, it's been a while since I sold my R3A). The M3 actually has a superior RF mechanism compared to the M2, as Leica made the M2's cheaper by removing a condenser lens as well as replacing the auto reset frame counter with the manual set dial.That's great, thanks. Would you say the RF patch is easier to use on the R3A or the M3? I vaguely remember that it sort of flared easily on the R3A, so making it a bit tricky sometimes to see.
Yes, on the M3 it does not flare. It also is bigger (IIRC, it's been a while since I sold my R3A). The M3 actually has a superior RF mechanism compared to the M2, as Leica made the M2's cheaper by removing a condenser lens as well as replacing the auto reset frame counter with the manual set dial.
I've recently bought an M4 and Voigtlander 40/1.4 - for me it's a perfect combination (I prefer something slightly wider than a 50mm). The lens brings up the 50mm frame lines, but as I wear glasses and struggle to see the 35mm frame, the whole of the viewfinder I can see is roughly equivalent to 40mm. Alternatively I use the 50mm lines and allow for a bit more in the frame. I'm not sure if this would work with.a higher magnification viewfinder though.
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