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Grim Tuesday

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I just unexpectedly got a GA645zi for an extremely good price. The rub is, the rear LCD came pre-broken. That's fine, I think I can figure out how to set the ISO without it. But in general, I don't like the idea of holding onto cameras that are unreliable or have known vulnerabilities that have a clock ticking down for when they will break. Especially 90s cameras that can't be fixed. I know the LCD on this camera was like that. Are there any other things about this camera that are known to break easily? Or, since the most vulnerable part has already broken am I home free?
 
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Jim Blomfield

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I own 2 of these cameras and have found them to be very reliable. However, because of the problem with the LCD screen that you describe, I take extra care when opening the back of the camera to not stretch the wires leading from the camera to the screen.
 
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Grim Tuesday

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Thanks Jim. I guess I don't really need to worry about opening the back because it's already broken! I'm glad to hear that the camera is generally reliable. I have to admit, I got it thinking I would resell it for a quick buck and get something else but I am very impressed with the build quality picking it up and impressed with the lens looking at photos others have taken with it on Flickr. I thought it was all plastic but a lot of the body is titanium! And I thought that a slow zoom must betray cost savings.

I can't recall seeing very many other slow zooms that were clearly designed to maximize image quality at f8 on useful focal lengths all costs. l suppose it probably helped that it is not continuously variable. It must have been a fun optic to design.
 

4season

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My camera developed cracks in the hard plastic cladding, but it didn't seem to have any effect on the operation of the camera.
 

xya

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I had one of these, it was very reliable, picture quality is superb. I sold it while the screen was still working to buy a Wi without screen on its back. I haven't regretted it since. so if you get around the ISO problem, use it for a while and then get one without screen on the back. they are really superb cameras. as they are as small as folders, I put some information about both on my folders website http://www.120folder.com/compic.htm
 
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Grim Tuesday

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I had one of these, it was very reliable, picture quality is superb. I sold it while the screen was still working to buy a Wi without screen on its back. I haven't regretted it since. so if you get around the ISO problem, use it for a while and then get one without screen on the back. they are really superb cameras. as they are as small as folders, I put some information about both on my folders website http://www.120folder.com/compic.htm

On your website you say that if the ribbon cable breaks the camera is useless because you can't set ISO. I thought that it was rather simple to set ISO without it, just turn the dial a certain number of times for a given ISO. Sure, it's "blind" but I trust that it works well enough. Sunny 16 can confirm it.

But what you say about the pressure plate concerns me. I haven't seen nearly as many (or any?) reports of it failing as the ribbon cable so I assume it is connected in a better more reliable manner. Or at least if it fails, it locks the camera on 120 mode forever. Which is fine, since no one makes 220 film anymore anyways. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
 

xya

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as I say on my site, you can work around the ISO problem by counting the pushes on the buttons, howto can be easily to looked upon the web. the pressure plate is connected by the same cable. If your camera has been on 120 film, it's fine. as you say, there is nearly no 220 film around any more. but if it had been on 220 before the cable broke, you're done.
 
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Grim Tuesday

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as I say on my site, you can work around the ISO problem by counting the pushes on the buttons, howto can be easily to looked upon the web. the pressure plate is connected by the same cable. If your camera has been on 120 film, it's fine. as you say, there is nearly no 220 film around any more. but if it had been on 220 before the cable broke, you're done.

Aha, I see. I will cross my fingers and try to find the batteries tomorrow! Is there any way to see which way it is "set" without being able to consult the display? The manual seems to imply that a 120 roll loaded with the pressure plate set to 220 will still rewind after 16 frames but that there is a chance the focus will be off. That would be the worst case scenario!

On an aside, it doesn't really make any sense that the focus could be off because the film gate doesn't change position, only the pressure with which the pressure plate presses does. I suppose it could press a little bit softer on 220 mode, but I get perfect results on my 220 backs for Hasselblad loaded with 120 film.
 

xya

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oh, the old discussion about focus and 120/220 pressure plates... you will find it on the forum of any brand. I use 120 film, I never liked 220 film. but if a camera came with 220 backs, I used them with 120 film. I never had a problem, nothing out of focus, no broken film advance. you just have to count...
 
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Grim Tuesday

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I am sure you were all waiting to hear back with baited breath about if my camera works or not...The result is it totally does. The screen isn't even broken, it is fading! I always knew I could count on Adorama's used department for inaccurate descriptions!
 

tezzasmall

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I just love my 645zi = in fact I think it could be my most favourite camera to use out of all the many that I have. Just don't tell the other cameras, or they may sulk or start to go wrong on me... :smile:

Terry S
 

TomNY

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This was the first medium format camera I bought. I've had it since 2003 and the LCD finally went completely 5 or 6 years ago. I have no problem working around the ISO and aside fron the LCD it has been very reliable. Just used in a vaction to shoot 10 rolls.
 
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