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Lachlan Young

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Is it possible to use FX-2 with traditional high speed films like HP5+ or Tri-X?
If so, what would suitable development times and EIs be?

All help much appreciated,

Lachlan
 

Tom Hoskinson

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Lachlan, I have not tried these two films in FX-2 myself. According to the articles published in the 1968 British Journal of Photography Annual, when developing with FX-2 Acutance developer you should increase the film's EI by 80%. Extrapolating from the development time tables published in the 1968 BJP Annual, development times in the range of 10min. to 13 min. at 20C should provide starting points for testing this developer with HP5 and Tri-X.
 

df cardwell

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More shadow speed than Rodinal, and finer grain, and more acutance.
More acute than D76
Easier than PMK

FX2, made by Crawley and according to Troop, the best glycin developer ever.

Supports constant agitation AND standing development

Perfect in ALL films, whether old school or t-grain

Below, TX in FX-2; 1 second at f/4.5, Contax 21 opton biogon
 
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Lachlan Young

Lachlan Young

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df cardwell said:
More shadow speed than Rodinal, and finer grain, and more acutance.
More acute than D76
Easier than PMK

FX2, made by Crawley and according to Troop, the best glycin developer ever.

Supports constant agitation AND standing development

Perfect in ALL films, whether old school or t-grain

Below, TX in FX-2; 1 second at f/4.5, Contax 21 opton biogon

Very nice picture - what was your approximate EI?

Thanks,

Lachlan
 

df cardwell

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400 is a good EI. I'm not obsessive at all about a little over exposure.... I prefer a 'fat' negative with gentle highlights. the lighting fixtures of the tower are discernible in the print... but they are pretty big, so it isn't a big deal.

the thing is that it is an acute negative without big clunky grain, but also with a long, gentle scale

FX2 is pretty easy to use, and easy to shoot for

.
 

dancqu

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df cardwell said:
FX2 is pretty easy to use, and easy to shoot for.

I'll likely include Glycin with my next order to P. Formulary.
Ansco 130 and FX-2 are of interest. How have you dealt
with the issue of it's short dry life span? What is your
experience with it's keeping quality in solution?

I wonder if yourself and Tom Hoskinson might agree on
the same ONE best way of dealing with a fresh into
stock supply of Glycin. Dan
 

jim appleyard

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dancqu said:
I'll likely include Glycin with my next order to P. Formulary.
Ansco 130 and FX-2 are of interest. How have you dealt
with the issue of it's short dry life span? What is your
experience with it's keeping quality in solution?

Dan

I've read that some people get a great deal of milage out their glycin by freezing the unused portion.
 

df cardwell

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GLYCIN AGING ISSUE: LONG ANSWER

Glycin turns color as it ages. But after 35 years of use, I've yet to be concerned over it. I never heard of ANY issue about 'short life span' before the Internet. Probably because I only talked about it with guys that used it every day.

Here are some ideas:

1. Order what you think you'll use in 6 months or a year. I go with a year's supply, but if you're concerned, go with 6 months.

2. Test before important jobs. How long does it take to contact print a step wedge to a piece of film, and toss into a tank ? I only use a densitometer when I'm testing ( I should say, perhaps, Confirming, or Affirming ) or to monitor the process with regular work. I don't have problems with densities drifting, but I like that 'occular proof' that encourages me "Believe in What Is Happening" instead of "Worrying About What Might Go Wrong".

NOTE: on the last roll of a shoot, there are always a few unexposed frames. I use them for a Zone VIII test. In that way, job I shoot is a precise confirmation of the process. if I have any doubts about the exposure of the job, that's a test roll that I develop in strips. So, I guess, it really doesn't matter if the developer is losing it's potency or not: I'd catch it.

I pretty much shoot every day. If I shot every 6 months, there's NO question that I'd order fresh film and chemistry for the event. A quick test would give me all I needed to know. Why order fresh ? Because it would press me to test and not be lazy. I don't worry because I know what's going on.

3. Mix fresh. Why are we even worried about keeping qualities ? Mix up a small amount of 130 before a printing session and use it up. I go through a gallon in a week, so I mix a gallon at a time. Monday morning is Chemistry Day. I throw out developer at the end of the day's printing. I can't believe ANYBODY would save used developer. ( Ripening is another issue, and beyond this conversation ! )

4. FX2, in two parts, lasts pretty much forever. How long ? I have no idea. I've used some that was a year old (after Confirming its activity) and it was fine. But I mix up a working solution the night before i intend to use it, and it's all gone in a week.

In short:

- glycin seems to last a long time in solution, and nothing in my experience indicates that it doesn't.

-- dry glycin darkens slowly over time but I've never seen a correlation between color and potency

--- normal photographic precaution wil detect any normal loss of potency - regardless of materials - and there is no need to worry.
 

df cardwell

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GLYCIN AGING ISSUE: SHORT ANSWER

There is no 'issue'.
 

Tom Hoskinson

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df cardwell said:
GLYCIN AGING ISSUE: SHORT ANSWER

There is no 'issue'.

I agree.

Now, having said that, I will retreat to my darkroom and check my 2.5 year old PF Glycin (dry powder) for activity
 

Alan Johnson

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My copies of BJP annual don't actually list HP5 or Tri-X as recommended for development in FX-2, they suggest fine grain or general purpose developers for these films.I guess that this might be to avoid pro photographers accidentally getting grainy results.
 

Tom Hoskinson

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Alan Johnson said:
My copies of BJP annual don't actually list HP5 or Tri-X as recommended for development in FX-2, they suggest fine grain or general purpose developers for these films.

That's why I extrapolated from the data published in the 1968 BJP Annual.
 

Ole

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I've used FX-2 in extended stand development with a mixed batch of film.

I had APX100, Tri-X and Efke PL100 in 9x12cm, and since I couldn't remember which holder held wich film (yes, sloppy me) I developed them all together in an ancient plate tank. FX-2, diluted to 50%, prewash, pour developer in, out and in again. Leave for 90 minutes (agitation is impossible with that tank). ALL negatives were just fine - excepting photographer error, of course.
 
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