Full moon/No tripod

[Mike Kennedy]

I lent my Manfrotto on Friday and don't have any support except my monopod for tonights full moon (Wolf Moon).
Shooting iso 200 color with 100mm Nikon 2.8.
Maybe 1/250 at f11 then a number of framer with decreasing shutter speeds?

 

[Vincent Brady]

Mike that sounds about right to me. I always understood that the full moon should be shot at the "cloudy bright " setting which can be found on the film box. I used to shoot a lot of full moons onto 100 asa slide film and then rewind the film and shoot it again in still life table top setups.

best of luck
TEX

 

[David William White]

Perfect application of the sunny 16 rule & tripod/monopod hardly necessary if shooting 1/250 or 1/500. I'd go for a longer lens, like 300mm to fill more of the frame, & probably select B&W; colour being unnecessary.

 

[Mike Kennedy]

Thanks David,Tex.
I wanted to include some foreground (public swimming pool).

 

[bobwysiwyg]

Are you shooting the moon, or scenes illuminated by the full moon?

 

[Mike Kennedy]

I'd like to include scenes lit by the moon.

 

[pentaxuser]

Mike. Dredging my memory here which may be faulty but I thought I had seen in a book that you provided the moon almost fills the frame it is 1/125th at f8 but with a 100mm lens the moon will not fill the scene completely. If I am correct then 1/250th at f11 looks underexposed. I have been frantically searching several books but can only see a reference to shooting a moonlight scene which is governed by the sunny f16 rule but the exposure is multiplied by a million as a full moon has about one millionth of the light of the sun but that's not what you want here. Worth remembering for scenes lit by a full moon however.

Hopefully someone will answer who has done this.

pentaxuser

 

[Mike Kennedy]

Thanks all.
The moon is climbing the sky and I'm off.Bracket like hell.

 

[pentaxuser]

PS In the time taken to write this there have been several posts, including amplification by yourself as to your aim. It looks as if my sunny f16 may apply. If my maths are correct and there is no other light source and the moon is excluded from the scene then this works out at about 2.5 mins,. If the moon is included but is quite small then it may not add a lot to the light in the scene. My understanding is that the moon moves quite fast and for the kind of exposure you may need it may appear sausage shaped in the scene.

pentaxuser

 

[Ralph Javins]

Good morning, Mike;

You can find this information in the old Kodak Photoguides; for moonlit scenes at ASA 200, start with 30 seconds at f 2.8. The moon does move remarkably fast and it is very bright. An astronomical "moon filter" is a 4X or 8X neutral density filter. Your chosen exposure might be about right for the moon itself, but I cannot find my astrophotography books right now to confirm it. Bracket. For me, I like to use a 1600 mm lens; it nicely fills a 35 mm frame with the moon. When I use the 1950 mm f 15 or the 2700 mm f 16 lens lens, I am taking photographs of parts of the moon.

Now if only we could do something about our normal cloud layer out here in Latte Land. It is raining right now. An optomist is someone who owns an astronomical telescope in Latte Land. But then, we do save a lot of money not buying sunblock.