Fujinon-W 150mm/5.6 contrast vs other-branded 150mm species

Alexz · Jan 7, 2006

Examining my first set of four trannies I notice there is significant contrast reproduction ratio between transpancies shot with my Fujinon-W 150mm/5.6 and Caltar II 90mm/6.8. I shot two out of four by Fujinon, and the rest of two by Caltar. the composition isn't exactly similar in two cases, but aren't wholy different either. The trannies shot though Clatar are quite noticeably more contarsty, providing a real "snap" to the image, while those done through Fujinon seem duller (in colors reproduction) i.e. considerably less contrasty.
The Fujinon I have is apparently multicoated (Fuji EBC) just as Caltar II.

So here is the question for Fujinon-W 150mm/5.6 owners: do you also notice a less contrasty performance of your lens comparative to other multicoated lenses ?
In any case, I'm going to plan a session dedicated to this issue, shooting similar compositions to make sure what I'm talking about.

P.S. the film used is Kodak E100s (4x5).

regards, Alex

Amund · Jan 7, 2006

Hmm, I have an older 150mm Fujinon W, Copal shutter with silver ring, and a pretty new Nikkor 90mm f/8, and have never noticed anything like you describe...
My Fujinon is very sharp and has good contrast.

Example

JosBurke · Jan 7, 2006

Fuji contrast

Having a 150 5,6 Fuji myself I must say I've never experienced a noticeable lack of contrast. Actually my Fuji glass is my number 1 lens choice as I range from a 90 mm 5,6 SWD thru a 420 L f/8 (my favorite 8x10 portrait lens). In between I have a 210 5,6, a 250 6,7 and 300 W. If you wish to make an accurate comparison for your own satisfaction then shoot the EXACT same scene with the same film as you may have other factors affecting your image--it would be nice to have the same focal length lens. Keep in mind I've had Schneider glass, Rodenstock glass and my beloved APO Artars as well and my Fuji glass to me is the cream of the crop--actually I have too much glass but thats another story!!
I only suggest you not cut the Fuji glass short just yet and do a little more testing!!! I'd be interested in the/your results!!

noseoil · Jan 7, 2006

There may be a relationship between coverage (image circle) and contrast which is not being considered. Did you use a lens shade to limit internal flare due to the greater covering power of the 150? tim

Dan Fromm · Jan 7, 2006

Slight overexposure reduces trannies' contrast. Don't blame the lens, check the shutter. Also check the lens for slight haze, which can have the same effect. But do check the shutter.

df cardwell · Jan 7, 2006

My experience with Fujinons back in the 80s was the contrast: very high, very 'commercial', very predictable. Hard to characterize the differences between them and Nikkors, Schneiders, Rodenstocks. If anything, those lenses were brutally contrasty.

My work was done under Bron strobes in ideal studio conditions. Every light was flagged from the lens. In other words the flare was perfectly controlled. Finding a difference between any of the lenses of that era was difficult.

Unless your Fuji lens was damaged, dirty, or fogged, I'd expect the differences you found between the two lenses to be attributable to exposure and flare ( unshielded lens ! ). Remember that flare is expressed as softer blacks, hence an overall lower density. The Caltar probably had less exposure, and hence, more apparent contrast.

As Steve Grimes used to say when I brought these kind of problems to him,
"Don, you're not testing the equipment: you are testing the tester !".

.

Alexz · Jan 7, 2006

Yes guys, I wopuld be better to conduct a real, trustworthy test (cutting down speculations of mine) and then will be reproting back. In fact, I don't have hood yet my lenses, however the particular scene Fuji was used to wasn't a really flare-prone (though one never know for 100%).
The trannies shot by Fuji were overexposed either, that's for sure.
Anyway, will be back hopefully soon with particular results...

jimgalli · Jan 7, 2006

Before you waste a lot of time doing tests, send your shutters in for a calibration. With E6 Trannies, a 3rd stop error in the shutter will make more difference than anything else. My SINGLE coated Fuji 125-W is one of my most contrasty lenses.

Alexz · Jan 7, 2006

Thanks Jim. I bought this lens from one of our LF APUG fellows and he tested the shutter on his shutter tester which comfirmed its precision prior to sell it to me, and that was just a few months ago. So I assume this isn't shutter issue. Besides, checking the transparancies I see they were exposed right on - I remmber measuring off highlights to preserve them (placed these on Zone VII) and they are perfectly exposed - bright enough but keeping fine details.

I will run a test this week and that will show the truth.

noseoil · Jan 8, 2006

Alex, I wasn't refering to the sun hitting the front element of the lens, but to the light bouncing around inside the camera body itself. If you have a lens with a huge image circle (extreme example) there is a lot of extra light inside the camera without a lens shade. I had this problem on a cloudy day and couldn't figure it out, because I had problems with flare from the sun, usually. The trees near the sky were washed out and lacked contrast. Turned out to be the extra light from the image circle which affected the scene in this case. A lens shade can really work wonders in the right setting. Best, tim

Alexz · Jan 8, 2006

noseoil said:
Alex, I wasn't refering to the sun hitting the front element of the lens, but to the light bouncing around inside the camera body itself. If you have a lens with a huge image circle (extreme example) there is a lot of extra light inside the camera without a lens shade. I had this problem on a cloudy day and couldn't figure it out, because I had problems with flare from the sun, usually. The trees near the sky were washed out and lacked contrast. Turned out to be the extra light from the image circle which affected the scene in this case. A lens shade can really work wonders in the right setting. Best, tim

Thanks Tim, good to know.
Assuming the camera internals are black I would guess it would "eat up" most if not of the potential bouncing inside, however this can't be perfect either.
I was anyway planning on acquiring a good hood in some near future, can't figure yet which one to choose.
I guess compendium hoods are most suitable bearing LF speciality, however in order to allow modular filter system usage I'll have to opt for modular filter manufacturers hoods (so far I used Cukin).
I intend soon to initialize a thread here regarding hoods recommendations to fit my Shen-Hao 4x5 and being able to handle modular system filters.

Fujinon-W 150mm/5.6 contrast vs other-branded 150mm species

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