Fujimoto CP51! Some Progress, Some Questions...

So I started up my Fujimoto CP51 today, it's working!!! Actually the IR reader was acting up so I sprayed some electrical contact cleaner on both ends and it appears to have fixed the problem. The one thing I haven't tested is the replenishment, but I have no reason to believe it won't work...fingers crossed.

So I thought it was coming with the WD module, but in actual fact it's the SD module, which I think is meant for 2 stabilizer baths. It does not appear to have a H2O inlet, but does have a replenishment hose. Are two replenished stab baths a suitable wash for RA4?

Does anyone have a more thorough instruction manual than this one? http://www.silveruser.ca/Manuals/CP51.pdf

That one has gotten me started but it doesn't identify all the hoses going out the back and really has no diagrams. I feel like there must be a more detailed one? It barely mentions the SD module.

I've attached a slightly more detailed manual that covers the SD unit, although the pictures didn't load when I saved it.
As for stabilizer vs washing, plenty of labs feel that stabilizer is good enough. Colenta offers all their processors with both stabilizing and wash setups, up to and including their full width (80"+) processors, clearly for at least some uses stabilizer was good enough. The main purpose of the stabilizing setup was to reduce effluent or allow operation with minimal running water. My understanding is that using stabilizer instead of wash probably decreases how long the prints will last, but the amount or percent is of undetermined. Probably better to do a higher rate replenishment in the stabilizing baths.

I think getting the Fuji stuff may be important, not really sure. All the minilab machines I've seen Fuji and Noritsu have 3 stabilizer countercurrent bathes, i.e. the final overflows (replenishes) the middle stabilizer bath which in turn supplies the first. So the final rinse isn't working too hard. I can't remember what sort of squeegee, if any was at work. I always used wash, except way back.
I wonder what the difference in the wash vs. stabilizer modules is??

mshchem said:

I think getting the Fuji stuff may be important, not really sure. All the minilab machines I've seen Fuji and Noritsu have 3 stabilizer countercurrent bathes, i.e. the final overflows (replenishes) the middle stabilizer bath which in turn supplies the first. So the final rinse isn't working too hard. I can't remember what sort of squeegee, if any was at work. I always used wash, except way back.
I wonder what the difference in the wash vs. stabilizer modules is??View attachment 345969

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In minilab machines (RA4) most have a wash system, 3 counterflow tanks. When I owned Fuji Frontier machines, they didn't use stabilizers.

We just used this:

Noritsu C41 processors such as the V30/50/100 all have triple stabilizer baths and no wash stage. Not sure about the Fuji or Agfa machines. Our Colex is standard C41 so it's Dev/Beach/Wash/Fix/Wash/Stab. As an aside, we use Fujifilm chemistry in that and I have to say the amount of corrections that I need to do in scanner have gone to absolutely minimal levels. When someone is shooting good in date film in working equipment, the color and quality are very very high with little effort by me. The V30 for whatever reason, possibly the Kodak chems, was not like this. I don't want to start a big 'thing', it's just my observation. Both machines were process controlled.

Anyway I suspect that the double stab baths would be sufficient washes. Given the incredibly fast bath time of RA4 paper I'm not sure how different it would really be. I like that you can use the machine into a water bath without the other module however, and I have a nice Arkay RC print drier so there wouldn't be that much extra work to just plop the print in a syphoned tray, wait 2 minutes, dry and go. It'll be a nice set up!

Ok brain trust, I have two mystery hoses. These are NOT overflow hoses, those are clearly marked, and I do not believe they are any kind of intake hose, as those are also marked. They are also not the drain hoses, as those come out the front and are obvious. Any ideas?

On the CP-31/32, there is a drain hose for the outer perimeter of the unit, above the level of the tanks, I think for if the usual overflow/runoff hose gets clogged or there are splashes. The manual mentions a 'gearbox drain hose', so that's my guess.

Dirb9 said:

On the CP-31/32, there is a drain hose for the outer perimeter of the unit, above the level of the tanks, I think for if the usual overflow/runoff hose gets clogged or there are splashes. The manual mentions a 'gearbox drain hose', so that's my guess.

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I wonder if the previous owner cut them short. I'll run some prints and watch them a bit.

Dirb9 said:

As for stabilizer vs washing, plenty of labs feel that stabilizer is good enough.

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I prefer to rely on what Fuji told me. Which is: ensure a wash rate of 250 ml/m2 during 90 sec at 35°C.
They were very explicit in mentioning that for archival processing, a thorough wash is the most important step to take.
Stabilizer probably doesn't hurt. It's not a substitute for a good wash, though.

foc said:

In minilab machines (RA4) most have a wash system, 3 counterflow tanks. When I owned Fuji Frontier machines, they didn't use stabilizers.

We just used this:

View attachment 346007

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Yes, that's coming back to me. I had about 25 bottles of this stuff given to me. My friend used deionized water and these tablets.

Has anyone found a replacement hard chemical filter for these? I know there are some around for sale but they're not listed as for the Fujimoto of course.

What's a hard chemical filter?

mshchem said:

What's a hard chemical filter?

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something like this.

foc said:

something like this.

View attachment 346144

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So these things are porous? Like fritted filters? Thanks for the picture

Did some color printing with the CP51 today.

First I tried some dated 2019 Ektacolor stock. Apparently the liquids don't last even in concentrate so that stuff was no good. I was getting very poor DMAX. The Blix seems to work fine. I got some Fujifilm developer and it's working well with Crystal Archive. My paper is from the same vintage as the old ektacolor so I'm surprised it lasts this long. I did keep it cold, not frozen though.

I'm printing with a Heiland LED so the module I have to use is RGB. It's a bit of a change. but not too bad. Just kind of backwards, and messing with the red doesn't impact your color pack or density.

The film was Kodak Gold 200 in 35mm, and I got pretty close to a print I like. It's one of those warm images and I find those to be a bit of a challenge. I do miss Kodak Supra Endura.

I am just running the CP51 main module so dev/blix, then it drops into a wash bath with a syphon. I then dry it with an Arkay RC2100. It's really fast, almost as good as a complete dry to dry system IMO. The only issue now is something is putting tiny scratches on my paper, which is glossy. I have to track down the rough roller.