Fujichrome 64T and a few other questions

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I'll be getting some 120 Fujichrome 64T this Monday for when I shoot at night. When shooting, I want to capture details in the shadows and have a brighter sky (so, long exposure). So I'm just wondering if there's a general area when shooting (shutter speed and aperture) that such can be done.

I also want to do the same shots with Portra 160NC.

Hope I'm not being too vague here.
 
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Ektagraphic

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Are you trying to shoot the stars? I have shot some E200 at F/4.5 for 1 hour. I just sent it out and should have it back shortly.
 

DonaldJ.

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with shooting stars, shoot 15-25 minutes at F4-5.6. time depends on how "dark it is" sounds weird at first but you can kinda gage it after a while. 64T should be perfect for long exposures. i have 7 or so rolls left of it.
 

keithwms

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I'll be getting some 120mm Fujichrome 64T this Monday for when I shoot at night. When shooting, I want to capture details in the shadows and have a brighter sky (so, long exposure). So I'm just wondering if there's a general area when shooting (shutter speed and aperture) that such can be done.

I also want to do the same shots with Portra 160NC.

Hope I'm not being too vague here.

For star trails you'll want a fast and also a fairly long lens. The ratio FL/aperture is the critical thing. For example the rz 110/2.8 or m645 80/1.9 or maybe the 200/2.8 are medium format lenses that I'd use for stars. You'll likely want to shoot a fast lens like these wide open, otherwise you won't have the sensitivity to get any but the largest magnitude stars.

Exposure... well let it go as long as you have time and patience for, if you don't have too many bright lights in the shot. With long exposures of the bare sky, the blues become gorgeous. My favourite 64T sky shots were ~4 hours. You'll need to watch out for light pollution- the crisp winter skies are perfect right now on many nights.

N.b. you can push 64T one stop if necessary. You'll see hardly any difference. I've done that with fireworks, works fine. In fact it'd not shock me to see a 2 stop push work out reasonably well with this film.

Do avail yourself of the reciprocity chart if you try to incorporate illuminated architecture at night. Sounds like you are using the older 64T? Not rtp2? Just be sure you have a reciprocity chart handy. The newer film had excellent reciprocity characteristics, but I nevertheless found myself getting into tens of minutes very quickly.

P.S. Nitpick: it's not 120mm film that you're getting, it's just "120." 120 is not a length or width.
 
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Yeah, it's the older 64T. Lens I'll be using is a 80mm f/2.8, think that will work fine?

Also I'll remember to call it 120 in the future, lol. My bad.
 

nickandre

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64T goes clear to two minutes without reciprocity correction. It is slow though. If you are shooting night scenes a push may not be beneficial because it will increase contrast.
 
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Hmm...

Any other film that would work for long exposures?
 

nickandre

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Any daylight film will render tungsten sources as orange, unless filtered, reducing speed by up to 4/3rds stops (you can filter less and retain some of the orange cast.) Those scenes you posted would be a piece of cake with 64T at F8. I shot some night scenes in florida with trees lit by tungsten ground lights and my times ranged from 30 seconds to 2 mintues at f8 (because my TLR didn't seem to be sharp at any other F stop...) With a lens that shoots reasonably sharp wide open or at F4 you would be fine. Just bring a tripod and avoid windy nights and bring your spot meter.
 
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Okay, great to hear. :smile:

I'll put the star shots on hold for now and give the shots I posted a try, since that was my main interest. Best to not take it on all at once.
 

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FYI, it's 120 format, not 120 mm. It is not a dimension, just a "code" for the format.

To open up the shadows with this film, or any transparency film, you can overexpose it and order the lab to pull process the film. IME, it pulls up to two and a half stops just fine, especially for night photography, where absolutely perfect color is not a necessity.

It is one of the best for night photography. Have fun!
 
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Yeah, already was informed about my mistake. :wink:

Thanks for the help so far. :smile:
 

2F/2F

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BTW, get it while it's hot. This film is discontinued last I heard. I wish I had more money to put into stockpiling several thousand frames worth of it.
 

2F/2F

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Nice. Did you end up overexposing and pulling? How did you meter? What were your exposures? Was there a moon in the sky, and if so, what phase was it in?
 

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I find that Kodak's E100G works super at night. All of the shots that I have worked with it for that were atleast 30 sec. came out really great. I know use it for all of the work that I do at night.......Nice Shot!
 

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I find that Kodak's E100G works super at night. All of the shots that I have worked with it for that were atleast 30 sec. came out really great. I know use it for all of the work that I do at night.......Nice Shot!

If you think that, then try some Fujichrome T64 while you still can. It blows E100G out of the water for night photography, as does Kodak's own version of the same type of film, Ektachrome 64T, also discontinued. Try some Fuji! Quit shoving Kodak down our throats with every post! Other films exist, and are great too! :wink:
 
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Nice. Did you end up overexposing and pulling? How did you meter? What were your exposures? Was there a moon in the sky, and if so, what phase was it in?

I used my DSLR to meter the shot and then bracketed with the Hasselblad. From what I remember I shot at f/4 for 30 and 60 seconds.

No moon was out, it was completely overcast. Just Denver has an insane amount of light pollution.
 

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Did you "meter" via an instant histogram preview, or just use the meter in the camera to find an exposure?

Which steps in the bracketed sequence for each composition ended up giving you the best exposures? Were they the same exposures that worked best for your digital, or different ones?

Did you overexpose and/or pull process? If not, next time, you can. It would help minimize both the blocked low end (tree trunks) and the blocked high end (the lamp on the structure), if that is what you want.

You could also employ an 81A filter to warm it up a bit, if you want.
 
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I had another meter but didn't know how the shot would turn out due to the light pollution (it was extremely bright). I had a basic idea of what the shot should be at from other films (Portra with this would be f/4 for 15 secs), so I shot an exposure with the DSLR to make sure I was right.

With the bracketing, the 30 second exposures turned out the best. The 60 second exposures exposed a lot of detail in the shadows but at the same time the snow looks overexposed (there are still details though), so your suggestion of pulling would definitely work with these. I'll do it next time if the lab can do it.
 
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