Fujica STX-1N riassembling issue

[Giacquis]

Hi everybody,
I'm new in this forum
I'm trying to recover my oldest camera (from my Dad R.I.P.)
Fujica STX-1N from flash issue (soldering the black wire to the flash shoe seems to be quite easy).

Although I disassembled the top of the camera, now I am not able to riassembling correctly the Shutter Speed Selector Dial/ASA film speed selector..It seems there is someting that push over the selector and push the crown of the ASA film speed.
can somebody help/guide me showing how I have to set/collimate the Shutter speed blak selector disc (and ASA film speed) and the brass selectors in the lower part?
here are the pics

thank in advance
Gian

 

[MattKing]

Welcome.
I've moved this to the Camera Repair sub-forum.
I hope you find what you need.

 

[Giacquis]

Appreciated
Thank you!

 

[Dan Daniel]

If it was me and I didn't have a service manual explaining this- Put that pin on the bottom of the shutter speed dial so that it is closest to the prism. When I look in the circular slot on the body that the pin will ride in, looks as if there is a piece of metal that intrudes into the slot more and more as you head 'right' in your photo (towards the right end of the camera). Take a small screwdriver to see if that piece of metal can be pushed to the outer edge- gently. I wonder if that is the speed control- the piece of metal connects to a resistor or such, and as the pin on the dial moves left to right, the metal is pushed away, leading to a change in the circuit.

Looking again, it could be that the small circular tab on the bottom of the shutter dial goes int othe cutout in the metal circle on the body and the whole metal dial rotates as the shutter dial moves?

Well, that's my guess. Maybe I am not seeing something since I only have photos, not the actual camera. Look at the interaction of the pin and the slot and see how it 'wants' to go together?

 

[Giacquis]

If it was me and I didn't have a service manual explaining this- Put that pin on the bottom of the shutter speed dial so that it is closest to the prism. When I look in the circular slot on the body that the pin will ride in, looks as if there is a piece of metal that intrudes into the slot more and more as you head 'right' in your photo (towards the right end of the camera). Take a small screwdriver to see if that piece of metal can be pushed to the outer edge- gently. I wonder if that is the speed control- the piece of metal connects to a resistor or such, and as the pin on the dial moves left to right, the metal is pushed away, leading to a change in the circuit.

Looking again, it could be that the small circular tab on the bottom of the shutter dial goes int othe cutout in the metal circle on the body and the whole metal dial rotates as the shutter dial moves?

Well, that's my guess. Maybe I am not seeing something since I only have photos, not the actual camera. Look at the interaction of the pin and the slot and see how it 'wants' to go together?

Hi Dan,
I put some letter in the pics, for underlining what I've found/I think...
A and B (black) are the holes for the teeth (A and B yellow) and C is a pin that moves in the curved hole.
The pin C (yellow) is quite retractable, this is the one we lift when we lift the ASA ring for selecting the ASA sensibility windows.
The problem is that when I close the top part of the camera, the ASA ring (external) lifts and therefore the shutter speed dial doesn't work, it slides without grip (because the ASA ring stay lifted).
It seems like the brass "pin" is too long...the curved hole is not so deep....probably I miss something otherwise I misunderstood the interlocking logic.
cheers

 

[Dan Daniel]

Ah... so C rides in the curved groove and is the ISO setting? So it gives a constant offset with a resistor or such based on the metal in the ring. A and B mate to rotate the whole dial assembly on the body.

Maybe the pin is too long because something is not engaging in the shutter dial on the top? Study the action of the ISO dial and that pin when loose, you might see that it needs to be in a certain position for installation. Or that something has disengaged.

Well, not sure what else to say. Sounds like one ofthose brain twister that you just play and play with different options until it clicks into place. It seems that you have the main pieces lined up! Many times an assembly like this needs to be set in specific ways- 1 second @ f/1.4, ISO 25, 1/700 @ ISO 100, or such And then you need to preset the dial on the body to match the tabs on the top dial...

 

[Giacquis]

Ah... so C rides in the curved groove and is the ISO setting? So it gives a constant offset with a resistor or such based on the metal in the ring. A and B mate to rotate the whole dial assembly on the body.

Maybe the pin is too long because something is not engaging in the shutter dial on the top? Study the action of the ISO dial and that pin when loose, you might see that it needs to be in a certain position for installation. Or that something has disengaged.

Well, not sure what else to say. Sounds like one ofthose brain twister that you just play and play with different options until it clicks into place. It seems that you have the main pieces lined up! Many times an assembly like this needs to be set in specific ways- 1 second @ f/1.4, ISO 25, 1/700 @ ISO 100, or such And then you need to preset the dial on the body to match the tabs on the top dial...

Hi Dan,
thanks to your suggestions I looked into it further...
in fact under the brass disk there is a transparent disk which has a very small hole, the pin enters that hole.
Since the disk had moved I couldn't see the small hole that had ended up under the brass disk.
All I had to do was select the maximum shutter speed (700) and the minimum ASA sensitivity and proceed with caution and sensitivity of the fingertips.
Now I think I've solved it, I finaly closed the camera, both the LEDs and the flash work.
Now all I have to shoot few rolls to test the sensitivity of the ASA disk.
That's all!
I hope our efforts can help other people.
Thank you and good night.
Here my "precious" Fujica riassembled

 

[JeremiKasten]

Hello,

Sorry to come in so late, I am also attempting to repair a Fujica STX-1n.

However, I have run into a problem - I am not sure how to take off the top.

I've removed everything necessary, other than the thing beneath the rewind knob.
I have absolutely no clue how to take it off, would you be able to shed some light on my predicament?

Thank you in advance.