Fujica GL690 (35MM panoramic, is it possible?)

[masterjbates]

Hi everyone, I've seen videos online with people shooting 35mm panoramic on a Fujica GW690 using 3D printed spool adapters.

I'm wondering if there's any reason why this wouldn't work on a GL690? Has anyone had any success? Are there any extra measures that need to be taken?

Any feedback is greatly appreciated

Thank you

 

[Nitroplait]

I am too lazy to pull my camera out to test for you, but why don’t you just tape a strip of 35mm on a piece of used 120 backing paper and try for yourself?
It works on some cameras, Rolleicord for example, but not others, Rolleiflex for example.
Or make a 35mm roll holder from alu-foil and chek that out?

 

[reddesert]

I believe the Fujica GL690 uses a roller to count the film advance. The roller is smooth where it contacts the film, but serrated at the ends, for greater friction probably. If you roll 35mm film into 120 backing paper it should work, but then you don't even need spool adapters. If you use spool adapters and no paper, then you have to rely on the friction between the 35mm film and the roller to turn it. It may work, or you may need to take extra measures to get it to work.

 

[masterjbates]

Thank you for the feedback guys. Reddesert, if the 35mm spool doesn't apply the correct friction and the roller on the film counter doesn't advance correctly will the camera shutter not fire even though the film has been advanced? I wasn't sure if the camera needs to show it's at the next count in order to enable the shutter to be fired. Thank you

 

[reddesert]

For the Fujica GL690, if the rear switch is on "R," the roll film setting, then the film does need to register an advance to allow the shutter to fire.

With the rear switch on "S" for sheet film, it is possible to fire the shutter without the roller moving (so for ex you need to put it on S to test fire the shutter without film). However, trying to run film through on "S" would have other effects - you need two strokes of the lever to wind a full frame, but I think only one to cock the shutter, so you'd need to remember that and the frame spacing might also be off.

You might get more answers in the medium format forum - the Fuji is a rangefinder, but most of the discussion in the RF forum is about 35mm rangefinders.

 

[mshchem]

I tried one of these adapters on my Fuji GW 690III cameras. 120 or 220, I couldn't make it work. Wouldn't cock the shutter or advance the film counter. I used a new 36 exposure roll of Ilford film, setup a take-up cassette. Just didn't work. I was refunded my money and I threw it out. It fit my camera perfectly but didn't cock the shutter.

 

[Nitroplait]

For the Fujica GL690, if the rear switch is on "R," the roll film setting, then the film does need to register an advance to allow the shutter to fire.

With the rear switch on "S" for sheet film, it is possible to fire the shutter without the roller moving (so for ex you need to put it on S to test fire the shutter without film). However, trying to run film through on "S" would have other effects - you need two strokes of the lever to wind a full frame, but I think only one to cock the shutter, so you'd need to remember that and the frame spacing might also be off.

You might get more answers in the medium format forum - the Fuji is a rangefinder, but most of the discussion in the RF forum is about 35mm rangefinders.

Are you reading from the manual or does your camera actually function like that?
I know previous versions, like the 690BL would work like that, but the three GL690 owners I know (including myself) have verified that the R/S switch is not operational (doesn't matter where it points).
They all seem to work "automatically" - in other words, when film is in the camera the frame counter works and you need to advance the film a full frame to release the shutter (two strokes).
Without film you can dry-fire the camera with just one stroke (or expose a piece of sheet film if you wish).
No need to flip the R/S switch.

I don't know if this is valid for all or just part of the GL690 production.

 

[reddesert]

Are you reading from the manual or does your camera actually function like that?
I know previous versions, like the 690BL would work like that, but the three GL690 owners I know (including myself) have verified that the R/S switch is not operational (doesn't matter where it points).
They all seem to work "automatically" - in other words, when film is in the camera the frame counter works and you need to advance the film a full frame to release the shutter (two strokes).
Without film you can dry-fire the camera with just one stroke (or expose a piece of sheet film if you wish).
No need to flip the R/S switch.

I don't know if this is valid for all or just part of the GL690 production.

I have a GL690. The R/S switch is functional, and the camera won't dry-fire on "R." I had not previously tested what happens if you have a roll of film loaded and it's on "S," because of not wanting to waste film, but I just tested it with a roll of backing paper. The "S" still defeats the shutter interlock, so the camera will let you fire the shutter after the first wind stroke cocks the shutter.

I think the R/S switch uses a spring to pull a lever that interlocks with the shutter release, perhaps yours has a broken or unhooked spring? Maybe repair-people bypassed it deliberately. But then it's not clear to me why you can dry-fire your camera on "R."

A sort of table for my camera:

- no film, switch on "R": can't dry-fire shutter.
- no film, switch on "S": can dry-fire shutter after one stroke of wind lever.
- film/paper, switch on "R": counter advances, 2 strokes per frame, shutter cocks on first stroke but can't fire until second.
- film/paper, switch on "S": counter advances, 2 strokes per frame, shutter cocks on first stroke, can fire after first stroke.

I recommend being cautious with the film + switch on "S." If you happen to fire the shutter after the first stroke, you still need to make a second stroke to finish winding the next frame. If this stroke finishes before going all the way around, then it won't release the interlock and the camera will appear to be jammed. The cure is to pop the back open and finish the extra little bit of wind stroke. Not something one would want to encounter in practice.

 

[reddesert]

I tried one of these adapters on my Fuji GW 690III cameras. 120 or 220, I couldn't make it work. Wouldn't cock the shutter or advance the film counter. I used a new 36 exposure roll of Ilford film, setup a take-up cassette. Just didn't work. I was refunded my money and I threw it out. It fit my camera perfectly but didn't cock the shutter.

That is useful information for this thread because it tells us the 35mm film alone wasn't advancing the frame-counting roller.

However, it doesn't mean there was anything wrong with the 120-to-35mm adapter. Those just let you physically insert 35mm film cans into the camera. 120 cameras use a variety of different ways to meter the frame advance (red window, counting turns of wind knob, metering with a roller that runs across the film gate, metering with a roller on the edge of the backing paper, etc) and the user has to figure out how to make it work.

 

[OAPOli]

I believe you need wrap some tape around the film roller to raise its diameter and add friction so that the 35mm film will engage it.

 

[mshchem]

That is useful information for this thread because it tells us the 35mm film alone wasn't advancing the frame-counting roller.

However, it doesn't mean there was anything wrong with the 120-to-35mm adapter. Those just let you physically insert 35mm film cans into the camera. 120 cameras use a variety of different ways to meter the frame advance (red window, counting turns of wind knob, metering with a roller that runs across the film gate, metering with a roller on the edge of the backing paper, etc) and the user has to figure out how to make it work.

The kit I was using had a metal plate that acted as a frame. The adapter without the metal frame might work OK. I have a Fuji 6mf it has a 35mm wide field adapter. Great fun!!

 

[MTGseattle]

This seemed like an appropriate thread to jump on the coat tails of. Could a thin mask be machined for the big Fuji's for other formats or is there not enough space in the film chamber? Something along the lines of the mask for the Mamiya 6mf and 7 panoramic options. If I had the machinery to experiment, I would.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Could a thin mask be machined

I'd probably start with 3D printing, MUCH cheaper than machining -- at least to test proof of concept and verify fit. An aluminum part, anodized black, would be more durable, but a 3D printed one likely faster to prototype and MUCH cheaper than the machine time to make one in metal.

 

[grat]

I'd probably start with 3D printing, MUCH cheaper than machining -- at least to test proof of concept and verify fit. An aluminum part, anodized black, would be more durable, but a 3D printed one likely faster to prototype and MUCH cheaper than the machine time to make one in metal.

Don't forget that once you've created a workable prototype in plastic, you can send the STL off to a commercial printer to be printed in metal.

 

[MTGseattle]

Hmm, sell my welder and associated bits and buy a 3d printer? I have too many hobbies that demand large equipment.

 

[Donald Qualls]

sell my welder and associated bits and buy a 3d printer?

My Ender 3 cost under $200 a year and a half ago; I've seen a similar (8x8x8 build volume) printer under $150 recently. That's not much more than the cost of a box of tungsten rods for a TIG welder. Basic filament is around $20-$25 per kilogram spool, and most common prints only mass a hundred grams or less.

 

[MTGseattle]

We sure are enablers on this forum. Ha ha! I've been watching the 3d printer market a little bit. My brother-in-law has one, so I can kick him some filament cash and not have to own my own machine.

 

[kfed1984]

Fujica GL690 appears to have a selector for 16, 8, and 4 frames. Is this for different format selection, i.e. 6x45, 6x6, 6x9? Then you need a format mask.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

Fujica GL690 appears to have a selector for 16, 8, and 4 frames. Is this for different format selection, i.e. 6x45, 6x6, 6x9? Then you need a format mask.

The 16 is for 220 film, the 8 for 120 film, and the 4 for half length 120 rolls. The half length rolls may have been sold in the Japanese market only. I never saw one in USA.

 

[Nitroplait]

Fujica GL690 appears to have a selector for 16, 8, and 4 frames. Is this for different format selection, i.e. 6x45, 6x6, 6x9? Then you need a format mask.

When you set the dial to 16 exp, the film type window will automatically indicate 220 on the dial. And 120 when you select 8 or 4 exposures.
The half length 120 (and single frame) were intended specifically for tourist group photography, where the photographer needed to quickly process the photographs after the session, in order to present and sell the pictures to the tourist before they left the attraction.