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Fuji Neopan Acros in Pyrocat - examples?

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Vonder

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Could anyone show me results from this combination? I'm particularly interested in people shots and shots with wood grain or weathered wood, or stones.

Please? :smile:

Oh, and if you use Acros 100 a lot and have also developed it with Xtol for comparision, what are your thoughts on that combination?

Thanks!
 

Dave Swinnard

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I am now using Acros, 35mm, with Pyrocat-HD (glycol) and like the results. I decided to standardize on a single developer a while back when Perceptol left the local shelves (only to return with a truly ridiculous price attached to it) and the Xtol price started to make me whimper when paying.

I liked Acros in Xtol (usually diluted 1+3). It gave full box speed, nice sharpness, and tonality. Same for Perceptol (again, 1+3, tried it for the cost advantage and the smaller package convenience). The dilute Perceptol/Acros for dusk/night photography was beautiful. Good sharpness, speed, shadow separation, highlight control, and reciprocity characteristics.

I'm sorry I don't have any scanned samples I can show you - no suitable scanner. I don't shoot people so I can't comment on that, but for weathered woods and stone (and old buildings and equipment) I like it a lot.
 

TN98

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I'm using 1:1:100 one minute agitation and 10 second at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 of 20 minutes for SBR7 EI100 as the information from this thread
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
Taking by Rolleiflex 2.8D.

img019.jpg


img017.jpg
 

markrewald

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TN98: A VERY noob question related to pyro, Is the green cast from the pyro/acros combo or did you tone the print? Love the 2nd one by the way.
 
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The stain is usually brownish with Pyrocat, and I suspect so with Acros too. I usually get a blue cast to the negs when they're directly inverted though. I would rather imagine them as desaturated in the examples above. When you print the cast will of course not be there.

I find that Pyrocat works really well with anything with extremely bright highlights because of its compensating abilities.

It looks like a good combination for these lighting conditions. Any changes to how it's used in low light conditions?

Thanks,

- Thomas
 

TN98

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These are scan from negatives. Thomas is right there is no cast in the print. Some how now I can't scan the print with sharpness of the real print. The print I made successful is with EMAKS G2 is very close to the pics above but I couldn't make it right with VC paper.

I haven't try this combo with low light condition yet.
 
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