Fuji Neopan Acros in Pyrocat - examples?

Could anyone show me results from this combination? I'm particularly interested in people shots and shots with wood grain or weathered wood, or stones.

Please?

Oh, and if you use Acros 100 a lot and have also developed it with Xtol for comparision, what are your thoughts on that combination?

Thanks!

I am now using Acros, 35mm, with Pyrocat-HD (glycol) and like the results. I decided to standardize on a single developer a while back when Perceptol left the local shelves (only to return with a truly ridiculous price attached to it) and the Xtol price started to make me whimper when paying.

I liked Acros in Xtol (usually diluted 1+3). It gave full box speed, nice sharpness, and tonality. Same for Perceptol (again, 1+3, tried it for the cost advantage and the smaller package convenience). The dilute Perceptol/Acros for dusk/night photography was beautiful. Good sharpness, speed, shadow separation, highlight control, and reciprocity characteristics.

I'm sorry I don't have any scanned samples I can show you - no suitable scanner. I don't shoot people so I can't comment on that, but for weathered woods and stone (and old buildings and equipment) I like it a lot.

I'm using 1:1:100 one minute agitation and 10 second at 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 of 20 minutes for SBR7 EI100 as the information from this thread
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
Taking by Rolleiflex 2.8D.

TN98: A VERY noob question related to pyro, Is the green cast from the pyro/acros combo or did you tone the print? Love the 2nd one by the way.

The stain is usually brownish with Pyrocat, and I suspect so with Acros too. I usually get a blue cast to the negs when they're directly inverted though. I would rather imagine them as desaturated in the examples above. When you print the cast will of course not be there.

I find that Pyrocat works really well with anything with extremely bright highlights because of its compensating abilities.

It looks like a good combination for these lighting conditions. Any changes to how it's used in low light conditions?

Thanks,

- Thomas

These are scan from negatives. Thomas is right there is no cast in the print. Some how now I can't scan the print with sharpness of the real print. The print I made successful is with EMAKS G2 is very close to the pics above but I couldn't make it right with VC paper.

I haven't try this combo with low light condition yet.