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Fuji Neopan 400 HC-110 vs Xtol

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ymc226

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I've been remiss and have about 50 rolls of Neopan 135 and 120 exposed at 200. I usually get good results using Xtol 1:1 but considering I have to pre-mix the Xtol the day before, I don't have enough containers to store all the gallons I would need. I usually develop in the winter when it is too cold to fish or golf so rolls usually sit for 6 months in the refridgerator.

My subject is my kids, at home, beach, outdoors etc. No landscapes.

I also have 2 full unused bottles of HC-110 that need to be used and I usually mix right from the syrup. The MDC states a time of 7:00 for Neopan EI200 dilution H.

Has anyone had experience using HC-110 compared with Xtol. Is there any speed loss even when exposed at 200? Any change in grain either at 120 or 135? I enlarge to 8x10 or 11x14 max. Any change in contrast?

I still have 600+ rolls of Neopan 400 in 120 in the freezer so I would like an easy to use developer like HC-110 rather than Xtol if possible. Any other speed preserving and easy to use/long shelf life developer suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I purchased a bunch of 250ml Amber Glass Large Mouth Bottle to be able to mix up Xtol (20 bottles) or D76 (16 bottles) and store in smaller bottles with no air so it would last longer.
Then I could use one shot or 1:1.

I have extra to sell so if you need any, search the APUG ads for Amber Glass or send me a PM.
 
do try rodinal please...
best, Peter

I think I've tried Rodinal, both 1:50 and stand but didn't like the increased grain.

Do you have a dilution/time for Rodinal that works well for you as I have alot of Rodinal as well that I use for Acros.
 
I can't comment on HC-100 and Neopan 400. I was fond of that film in 120, and always liked using XTOL or D-76 as the developer for it. Now, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with HC-110, and considering that you've already exposed the film at EI 200, there should be plenty of shadow detail available even if the HC-110 doesn't provide as much speed as would XTOL. I am suspect of the MDC's data though. Much of it is taken straight from the manufacturer's tech sheets, and that's fine. Unfortunately though, a good portion of the data are anecdotal observations with no known provenance which may or may not represent good starting points for your application. Fuji doesn't list a a recommended time for Neopan 400 in HC-110 dilution H, so the data for that film must be, in the absence of any other supporting data, considered anecdotal.
 
HC-110, an upwards sweeping curve developer combined with 400PR a naturally contrasty film with generally steep curves?

Stick to XTOL.

PS: I know theres going to be a bunch of people coming along saying "look at the great results I got with HC-110" but if you want flexibility and desire to print these images at some point in time, HC-110 ain't a good choice with that film.
 
HC-110 Dilution B should give more grain than X-tol 1:1.
 
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