I mixed the XTOL as directed, but cutting the volumes and masses to 1/10 to make 500ml stock.
I'm not sure I understand this.
Did you start with the entire double package, and did you mix it up to make the full 5 litres of stock developer?
It doesn't work that way.
There is no reliable way to ensure homogeneous distribution of the constituent parts of the developer when mixing up packages of powdered developer - particularly with developers you mix from more than one package.
The developer you mixed up will almost guaranteed to not be the right strength or activity - except by pure chance.
If you mix up the rest of the powder into 4.5 litres of liquid, it will probably be closer to the proper strength, and therefore usable, but it won't be exactly the same as the proper strength stuff.
Any division into smaller quantities needs to be done after you mix it up into liquid form, not by dividing the powders.
That being said, if you aren’t doing a lot of volume check out Adox XT-3. It’s the same as X-Tol but available in 1L packets.
What's the best way to mix XTOL in the full amount? I was a bit worried about "to make 5L" if I don't have something graduated with that capacity. I could use the distilled water jug maybe, replacing it with A, add 4 pitcher-fulls of 1L of the water, add B, then add another 1L?
There were two packages. I did everything scaled down 1/10. The original directions are: add part A (244g), add 4L water, add part B (270g), top off to 5L.
I took 24g of A, added 400mL of water, added 27g of part B, topped that off to 500mL.
Really? I figured it wouldn't have been considering you already might get minor errors with amounts. Are they really that sensitive?
What's the best way to mix XTOL in the full amount? I was a bit worried about "to make 5L" if I don't have something graduated with that capacity. I could use the distilled water jug maybe, replacing it with A, add 4 pitcher-fulls of 1L of the water, add B, then add another 1L?
developed .. for 9.5 min,
Title says most of it, but I exposed 2 different ways, as metered and auto flash, and both gave similarly thin results.
I just a Canon Demi EE17 and wanted to test it with some B&W. I first checked the internal meter against a metering app and found it was accurate so I trusted it. I set it to EI 80 and shot mostly on auto. Later, I checked the shutter speeds and found they were quite uniformly (from the slowest speed to the highest) 2/3 stops too slow. So, in total, besides the long exposures and flash, all the auto shots are actually overexposed 1 stop from box speed.
The chandelier up top was the brightest object and the sky in the other frames didn't get nearly as dense. Sky usually gets quite dense on my previous (HP5+, Delta 100 all with the CS Monobath DF96):
View attachment 384909
Here are two exposures of NY. I recall the 2nd was wide open at 8 sec (I think I metered around 1s with my phone):
View attachment 384912
1st was just on auto on a brightly lit train platform at night; 2nd was done with an auto flash, so it wouldn't be affected by any inaccuracy in the shutter, bounced off the ceiling:
View attachment 384911 View attachment 384910
Additionally, the exposed leader was dark but it wasn't nearly as dark as my other B&W rolls. All these negatives are mostly close to the density of the borders.
For dev, I was testing some powder XTOL that I got and I hadn't used yet. I was only using DF96 for B&W before and the Arista 3 bath E6 for slides which I've been having way too much fun with.
I mixed the XTOL as directed, but cutting the volumes and masses to 1/10 to make 500ml stock. Made a 1:1 working solution and prepared Ilford rapid fixer at 1:4, as directed. Washed the film for almost a min, developed at room temp, maybe higher (68-70F), for 9.5 min, washed with a lot of water (7 changes), then fixed for 5 minutes. Then I washed again and added some Photo-flo.
Is there a reason I should be getting negatives as thin as this? I try to err on the side of overexposure for negatives and my monobath ones haven't home out anywhere near this thin.
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