Fuji HRT, HRU? Which to Use?

[F4U]

When I bought my box of Fuji Xray film to use as a poor man's 8x10 film for general photography, I thought I had done my due diligence by buying HR-T. I thought one was blue and one was green. So I bought the HR-T thinking it was the green. Now I seem to be finding out they are both green, but one is simply a much higher contrast than the other. Well, contrast is what we're fighting most in using these X-ray films. Now I seem to be finding out that he HRT I've had all along is the higher contrast stuff. So it sounds to me like I've been messing with the wrong thing. I just use Rodinal 1:100 for 6-7 minutes at 72. I don't want to get into pyro, or any of the other developers, because a bottle of Rodinal doesn't go bad like all the others. But back to the film. Which of these "cheap" X ray films should I be using for this pictoral type of stuff? Thank you.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Not familiar with HR-T. I've only ever used film from csxonline, that was double-sided, green, and just recently, HR-U (to feed the 14x17). I tried Rodinal years ago with xray film, but did not care for it. Much prefer D-23 1+3.

 

[DWThomas]

I have only (so far) used HR-T, as that was what I found from a vendor on ePrey ten years ago. It indeed tends toward high contrast, but pulling using dilute developer seems to deal with that. Since that purchase I have found some actual curves on the Fuji site (best I recall nothing came with the 100 sheet box). Superimposing printouts, there appears to be only a very slight difference between the two. (Originally I didn't know of HR-U until a few years back and had assumed it was a new enhanced spec replacing HR-T.)

The 1 page of data for either shows a characteristic curve, MTF curve, and RMS granularity curve but offers no spectral response info other than stating "orthochromatic" and provides no other info for general photography.

I've only used it for pinhole work, and have settled on metering at an EI of 50 and using HC110 1+63 for about 3:30 (20º, constant agitation in a tray) to keep contrast down. Since exposures are multiple seconds at f/300, I suppose reciprocity issues could arise also, but there are no hints as to behavior at long exposures.