Fuji 160S push to 400

Ciao everyone..
I'm Marco from Rome, this is my first thread here (wonderful site)
I have some fuji 160S films that I don't use too much, I prefer much more 160C, now I have to do a work with some faster film (iso 400 or more, well 800 will be the best) so I thought to use my 160S, but before "throw it away" makin' some test, I'd like to know if someone has ever push fujifilm NP160S at iso 400 or more, and what comes out from this film (or some pic to show me).
Thanks for the answers (and sorry for my bad english)

Marco

Ciao Marco - you're English is fine by the way. Please excuse my non-existent Italian!

Many years ago I did push a C-41 film to see what happened - and it didn't impress me. The problem is that the three, (or more) colour layers in the films are designed to work at the standardized process times. When you alter the process these layers respond differently causing colour casts - which can be different at different density levels. They can't be corrected in printing. It's a fun project and you may, (or may not) get interesting effects. But if you have an important assignment I wouldn't use the 160S to push it. The results are too unpredictable.

I wouldn't throw the film away though - try some push processing for fun. Or try and find subjects that suit the 160S film - that's always a great exercise in learning to see.

Good Luck

Bob H

Thank Bob, yes my doubt was the same, I never did something like this with color negative film, but you gave me good advice, I will try one just for fun, who knows, but I guess will be safer to use fuji 800Z that I know better.

Marco

In a pinch, you can push it to 400, it's okay. If you want snappier colours akin to 160c then I would rate it at 400 and develop for 800 or something like that. (anyway, I rate pro h at 320 and pro z at 640 or so, typically, unless skin tones are involved, in which case I go with box speed)

DONT DO IT!!! Two reasons 1) the ISO in color film is established in a laboratory by the smallest amount of light needed to achieve acceptable results to an average consumer (a holdover from the days prior to digital; and it was thought that fasters films are easier to market). As anyone in the art community can tell you lab results are valuable, but nigh meaningless when it comes to practical application of films and other media. 2) there is NO way to regain lost contrast in C-41 and RA-4 photography.

Plus, the curves will cross and you have a horrendous mess on your hands!

So, I admit that I haven't pushed 160 to 400, but I have pushed pro z to 3200 with EI 1600 and the results were fine. One example from a roll is (there was a url link here which no longer exists). N.b. the lighting was from a nasty mix of incandescents and candles and a distant street light in a little club (Spotted Cat, New Orleans) that was rather dark. I simply had no choice but to rate it higher and push. My assessment of the result was that the film handled it like a champ. The colours were okay (realistically warm, according to my memory), grain was okay, contrast was okay. I'd not expect any less from 160s... why not try it and report back to us. Chris, have you tried it? Any examples of mishaps from pushing 160s?

P.S. If I were to do this, I'd be tempted to rate the film for 400 and develop for 640 or even more. I'd probably not rate it at 400 and also push to 400, that'd likely give you some underdevelopment, I think. I rate pro h at 320 for normal development...

So Chris better don't do that? Well I'd like to try, but here in Italy film are quite hard to find, and almost impossible to find a good traditional lab, so better to do only if there will be the hope to have something interesting, but if you are telling me that.... well, better to use in regular way
I'd like to see somewhere a pic taken pushing a negative film, no one knows a place to see something?

Marco