If my maths are correct, this will give you 168 sheets of 11"x14". That works out at $4.17 per sheet. If you add shipping and chemicals (Cibachrome bleach ain't exactly cheap), you're probably looking at close to $10 per print. Each of those prints better be perfect...
If my maths are correct, this will give you 168 sheets of 11"x14". That works out at $4.17 per sheet. If you add shipping and chemicals (Cibachrome bleach ain't exactly cheap), you're probably looking at close to $10 per print. Each of those prints better be perfect...
No. Scanning and inkjet (in particular) are NOT an acceptable alternative. It's a whole different look. Someone with a big pro laser printer and drum scanner setup can achieve similar results on Fujiflex from chromes if they're really good at it. But that's an expensive service and with very expensive overhead and equipment investment. If you want a high-end darkroom revival in color, join the list of folks who want dye transfer matrix film revived. This can be done (and has been in a couple of batch orders). But there's only one way to currently get a Cibachrome-like look in the darkroom and I've already mentioned it. Doing a good job with Ciba requires a lot more than just hypothetically
reviving the print media itself. You also need the right type of chrome films, masking films, distribution (the paper doesn't keep well), etc.
Time to move on. I've only got one box of it myself in the freezer, and don't know if it's still good or not.
not to take this off topic but - a dye matrix film - could one substitute pigments with this instead of dyes.. I was actually reading a book on how to easy make dye transfer prints. and I started to wonder about what exactly is the matrix film and if it could be made today and could it be designed to use pigments. Making the separation negatives or positives is a piece of cake.
I really liked the idea of this but do not know enough about Kodak Matrix film and its makeup.
Drew could you elaborate a bit.. please keep out any story's about bears and hiking or enhanced masking techniques.. thanks
Bob
Lachlan - the other big advantage of DT was that it was based on silver, and the color separations can simply be enlarged by using a
pin-registered ordinary pro enlarger. It's not a UV process. Therefore it is relatively easy to make a film specially suited to it. I can be done
today if someone forks out the money for a batch run.
Mordants need not be radioactive, and the ones that were, were relatively benign, too weak to even penetrate the skin. There are all kinds of potential mordants, including ordinary aluminum sulfate, which was the first one commercially used. One thing that killed off Technicolor was the industrial quantities of pyro they used and the
associated hazmat issues. All the dyes and cameras still exist. No tanning pyro is needed in the wash-off relief version of processing. Just
an ordinary developer like HC110 or DK50, followed by glyaxol post-hardening. It does use a lot of acetic acid, but mainly at 2% concentration; but that still warrants serious darkroom ventilation. It's a heck of a lot safer than ordinary RA4 processing, which is my go-to for fast predictable results. Color carbon printing is another story completely. You get one crack at it, and after a week or work, might
watch the entire thing wash off into the drain. Then you have to start over. With DT matrix film, you produce a printer, not a print. The
colors can be fine-tuned with all kinds of tricks using the same set of matrices. Once you see a really good dye transfer print, it's hard to
forget.
Lachlin, I think with the advent of digital negs , the world has changed ... for example if you can find a LVT image setting house in Europe, you could send files to them
to make your negatives with perfect results.
Bob
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