FP4+(@80) in T-max Dev

Hey,

Shot a roll of FP4+ and I have nothing else then T-Max Dev around. I Shot it at an EI of 80. Anyone got a suggestion about how to go about it to correctly develope it?

I looked on the Massive Development Chart and it seems that the lowest speed given is 100 but there's not a lot between 80 and 100. If you go with the MDC time, note that the time given seems to be for rotary processing. You might want to look up the Kodak instructions for any increase in inversion development time assuming you don't have a rotary processor. The Kodak instructions might include a time for non Kodak films.

The MDC is always worth a look if you haven't tried a particular combination. No doubt someone here has actually used FP4+ and T max dev so you'll get the benefit of actual experience.

Best of luck

pentaxuser

hey thanks pentaxuser. Yeah i figured that out that on the MDC is for rotary, so I went ahead and just guesstimate a time I thought would render good results. I developed for 6 1/2 min at a temp of 22°C. Dilution was 1+4 and agitation as stated on the box. They are washing now and although I certainly have an image, I'm afraid they are overdeveloped a little. I guess I'll go for 6mins...?

Ilford recommend a 15 to 20 % reduction for rotary processing. Assuming that you can apply the same 20 % addition for inversion from the MDC rotary time, this amounts to 4.5 mins(270 secs) plus 20% which is only 324 secs. Call it 5.5 mins and still at 20 degrees C. You have developed at 2 degrees more and that plus one minute more at 6.5mins is likely to give overdevelopment.

I have never used this combo so this is all theory but based on your findings and using 20 degrees C, I'd go for 5.5. This is still at the top end of the 15-20% range. You might be fine at 6 mins but I suspect this may still be a little overdeveloped.

The key is how well the 6.5 mins negs print. If the highlights are only a little overdeveloped and lack a little detail as oppsed to featureless white then 6 mins might be OK. Certainly the negs should print easier at 6mins than 6.5 especially if you reduce temp to 20 degrees C.

Best of luck

pentaxuser

Yes, they are dry now and I'll have to confirm they are overdeveloped, be it only slightly.
I'll try shooting some more rolls and try both 6 and 5,5@20min. Thanks for the info pentaxuser, cheers!

Try it at 1+6.5

Hello
I originally found TMax dev far too gutsy and contrasty until it was suggested by a photographer running a workshop many years ago that it's best dilution is actually 1+6.5. It certainly works for me and produces far smoother negs, especially when slightly overexposed. Best to test the dev time to suit, but won't be too far off the 1+4 times. I would reckon FP4 plus @ 80 would work out at about 6 mins-6 mins 30 at 1+6.5, 20?C. Please note, I'm not disputing, Kodak's published information, just stating my preference. Would still probably use it at 1+4 for pushing films or Neopan 1600 and TMax & Delta 3200.
Cheers
Mike
PS. Where's the spill chuck gone?

I did another test today. Shot some portraits with soft summer evening light and 1 shot "contra-sunlight". The film was again rated 80 and developed accordingly. Only now I just developed for 5 1/2min and at a temp of 21°c. The portraits seem to be kind of flat and lacking contrast. Maybe a little underdeveloped. The "contra-sunlight" shot looks fine.

mohawk said:

I did another test today. Shot some portraits with soft summer evening light and 1 shot "contra-sunlight". The film was again rated 80 and developed accordingly. Only now I just developed for 5 1/2min and at a temp of 21°c. The portraits seem to be kind of flat and lacking contrast. Maybe a little underdeveloped. The "contra-sunlight" shot looks fine.

Click to expand...

Sorry it has turned out this way. Does flat and lacking contrast apply to the appearance of the negs or are these the prints? The prints are the key, I feel.

Sometimes negs might appear to lack "bite" but print very easily at grade 2-3. If they do and the prints have good contrast then I'd be unconcerned about the look of the negs.

I think Roger Hicks used a good analogy about testing for development times when he talked of ranging as in artillery ranging. Firing too far and then too short helps determine the exact range quickly.

Maybe you now know that the correct time is somewhere between 5.5 mins and 6.5 mins. Normally at development times of greater than 9-10 mins, 30 seconds is the smallest alteration to time that is likely to make a difference but at 5-6 mins maybe 15 secs difference would be noticeable.

pentaxuser

Hey pentaxuser,

No need to feel sorry man, they are still printable so no worries

I just inspected the negatives, didn't make any prints just yet. It will be for tomorrow or the day after.

Yeah I now know more or less what I can expect from FP4+ rated 80, shot in certain conditions and developed in a certain way. I'm really kind of new to this and this is the first film I thoroughly test. It's not even my first choice of film, but it's a good learning school..
I'll probably do some more testing and I'll report back. cheers

When you do your tests, try the procedure that Mike suggested. I think he gave you sage advice.

Cheers.

Yeah although I don't know what he means with "spill chuck". Being from Belgium and all..

Spill Chuck!!

Whoops!
Sorry, I was stupidly referring to the spell check feature, (spill chuck, spool chick Etc Etc), which helps my spelling get near to OK, which seems to have gone from the Apug forum. Looking back at my time of 6.30, that may be too short, and 7.30 at 1+6.5 at 20C may be a better starting point for FP4 at 80. As long as the subject matter is not too flat, downrating film is a very good thing to do.
Good luck
Mike

Ok, did alot of printing the last 3 days and I must say the negatives were a pleasure to handle. They were full of detail and I could go different routes with them(contrast-wise), which was really nice. I'm gonna try what Mike suggested tomorrow and i'll report back. Thanks !

Already typed this but server wouldn't upload...

So I went ahead and developed again FP4+@80 according to Mike his instructions. The results were rather interesting. The shots I took in full (evening) sunlight are well overdeveloped, whilst the shots I took inside+late at the evening(really low light diafragma: 1.8 and shutter: 1/30) were full of detail and had a nice tonality to them. So it seems to me this combo is more appropriate for low light situations ? (even though it's not very practical with an 125 ISO film...)