Found some old unexposed Verichrome

I was digging out some old cameras I had in a box and found that one of the Kodak Brownies had an unexposed roll of Verichrome in it. I've read about people developing exposed rolls that they found, but what about an unexposed roll? Would this be at all usable? I would've just tried it without asking, but when I try to spool it up, the backing paper ripped, so I'll have to put different backing paper on it if it turns out I could use it. Which brings up another question, could I use 120 backing paper on it?

If the Brownie uses 620 or 120 film, the 120 backing paper will work fine.

Yeah, I forgot to mention that, it's 620 film.

The tape has usually dried out on very old rolls so it is wise to at least retape it, if not respooling it.

I've used 1959 expired Verichrome Pan with some success in HC-110 1+31 with some success but Verichrome may be even older. Expect some fog, perhaps some backing number shadows, dots, etc. Not ideal in my experience but can be fun.

I have gotten alright photos from 1968 Verichrome Pan, I shot it at the box speed of 125, and then pushed 1 stop when I processed it.

I shot one roll of this stuff at box speed, and processed as normal, that did not work out so well for me, spots, dots, numbers, and really blotchy.

You should expect to get images, if you shoot and process it, just don't expect those images all that great, it's still a lot of fun to shoot really old film.

Old films work for me. Respool and shoot away

I regularly shoot vintage film from the 1930s to 1960s and have gotten great success with them, check my out Flickr albums https://www.flickr.com/photos/51853869@N08/sets . The trick to making an antique film capture pictures is to expose the hell out of it, so for say a 1940s Kodak Verichrome 120 that is 50 ASA, instead of shooting it at 1/50th sec at around f-11/f-16 in sunny weather, shoot it at 1 sec and it will make a nice picture, or alternatively shoot at f-3.5 at 1/25 sec and you will get the same results but narrow depth of field, I do this when shooting handheld. Here's a couple of 1945 Verichromes I've shot recently, they made stunning pictures Dead Link Removed Dead Link Removed . I develop all of my old B&W films exclusively in Caffenol C (coffee, vitamin C, soda) works like a charm each time so I don't need to go out and buy commercial B&W developers.

I've also gotten good results from Verichrome pan and even Verichrome (non-pan) as the above user mentioned, expose the hell out of it.

My standard calculation is 1 stop loss per 10 years of age, so if it's 1960's you would ... Well I thought Verichrome Pan was an ASA of 125 not 50, but this may be the change in the ASA rating or that Verichrome (non-pan) had a different speed than Verichrome Pan?

Anyway so assuming it's 1940's and 50asa as above, I would go with 0.75 ASA which pretty much lines up with the last poster's numbers.

I just felt it's easier to have an actual system then guess work.

So far my system hasn't let me down, but I've only gone as old as 1947, looks like the typical ausie has gotten into the 1930's! Wow!

The plan is different when developing old-found already exposed film - versus making fresh photographs on expired film.

In both cases there will be fog.

For new photographs on found film you can do something about the fog - overexpose to rise above it.
-That might be all you need to enjoy the film.

With old photographs already taken - of course overexposing is not an option.
-Latent image degradation is working against you.
-You only have one chance to get it right.
-The images might be priceless.

what kind of developing times?

I also have a super old roll of Verichrome ( safety film! )...no date that I can find

tonight I developed a roll of "Supa-Film" that expired in 1949....and it worked...so I'm getting hooked on the old film thing now

DarkroomExperimente said:

what kind of developing times?

I also have a super old roll of Verichrome ( safety film! )...no date that I can find

tonight I developed a roll of "Supa-Film" that expired in 1949....and it worked...so I'm getting hooked on the old film thing now

Click to expand...

IF you compensated in the exposure by extending the time, you should develop as the normal times listed for that film, just look at the times on the box, they should have HC-110 which is the best option to hold the fog back.

EDIT: to my recollection the Verichrome (non-pan) was like 4:30 for dilution B and regular Verichrome was 5:00 for dilution B but I might be slightly off, someone else have a box handy? I'm not home or I would look.

OK...to keep fog down...would it make sense to use the method used in B&W reversal processing -- adding a small amount of fixer to the developer?

or even using the HC110/ammonia/rapid fixer monobath recipe?