Interesting. Whats the balpark dev time for a 200 or 400 film?I use 0.5 g/l of working strength 1+9 D-23. I mix it in directly, stirring and pouring slowly (with eye, skin, and clothing protection) and the amount of exothermic response has been unremarkable.
One of the annoying features of the stuff I have is that it's in the form of tiny balls which roll in any random direction if they happen to get loose.
Diluted NaOH (<5%) is relatively easy to make, use cold water or place the beaker in a cold water bath.I will be using it for an experiment with D-23 developer and also for making a small amount of homemade Rodinal solution.
When the NaOH was ordered there was no description on the fineness or type of NaOH. The container hasn't been opened yet but it sounds like the contents are coarse. When I shake the container it sounds about the same as my container of sodium metaborate contents when shaken.
I know that potassium version is recommended more. A few videos I have seen in the past said sodium could also be used.
Thanks for the Digital Truth and Science link.
Interesting. Whats the balpark dev time for a 200 or 400 film?
I use Sodium Hydroxide for Rodinal and some other Phenidone developers. Handling precautions depends on hydroxide form.
I normally use it on flakes/scales and if I pour it without precautions, it releases dust that can be really dangerous, so either handle it careful (which you should) or user a face mask.
I use it on liquid form pretty seldom and you will need and apron if you value your clothes and gloves if you are attached to your hands (which I assume you are). I guess the pellets are the safest form but thats hard to find locally for me.
Not the most dangerous of stuff but requires you to handle with care.
I put a container on a scale and tare the scale.
I then use a spoon to add the required amount to the container, close the Hydroxide back up, and pour the weighed amount slowly into the target liquid. I've never had a dust problem, though I do keep my skin, eye, and breathing protection in place for this.
I understand that it's so hygroscopic that it would be easy to use too little as it absorbs water from the air so fast.
I could make up a stock solution, say 50g/L, and dispense a calculated amount of that, or would a stronger stock keep better (it absorbs carbon dioxide from the air too)?
I recall reading somewhere that there is a concentration of NaOH solution that does not deteriorate
Why not use sodium carbonate or even borax instead?
It's not like you open the bottle and *poof...* all the pellets pop up and double in weight.
I have a bottle of flaked NaOH. Is about 3 years old. I guess the container is like 1.5-liter size. Probably half of it left. No issues with performance and I store it on my laundry room, which I assume is high on humidity. So yeah, probably a myth, about it being unstable.
Also a solution of it will absorb CO2 from the atmosphere
Since it is such a powerful alkali, the amount I need to balance the pH of a developer is very small, I was concerned about accurate measurement. It is not a myth that it absorbs atmospheric water: The issue is by how much. Also a solution of it will absorb CO2 from the atmosphere so making it up fresh would be important if accuracy were important. I think that some of the readings I've done were more about analytic work where accuracy is more critical, but we're just talking about photography here were a few percent up or down is not going to make much difference. So thank you all for allaying my concerns.
Not as many "H's" to the "p's"! In a less tongue in cheek way neither borates or carbonates are as powerful as hydroxides.Why not use sodium carbonate or even borax instead?
I know, but it's merely a matter of weight. Also, much easier to weigh larger amounts. For D-23, I see no reason to use hydroxides.Not as many "H's" to the "p's"! In a less tongue in cheek way neither borates or carbonates are as powerful as hydroxides.
I know, but it's merely a matter of weight. Also, much easier to weigh larger amounts. For D-23, I see no reason to use hydroxides.
I know, but it's merely a matter of weight.
For D-23, I see no reason to use hydroxides.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?