foot switch

mitch brown · Jun 24, 2006

i have a zone vi enlarger timer w/ dry down that i do not have a foot switch for. are there any others that will work with this timer other than a zone vi?thanks
mitch
thanks to everyone for helping me .

c6h6o3 · Jun 24, 2006

wager123 said:
i have a zone vi enlarger timer w/ dry down that i do not have a foot switch for. are there any others that will work with this timer other than a zone vi?thanks
mitch
thanks to everyone for helping me .

This is what I use. It's for line voltage, but if you need a signal voltage switch, I'll wager Linemaster makes one.

unregistered · Jun 25, 2006

wager123 said:
i have a zone vi enlarger timer w/ dry down that i do not have a foot switch for. are there any others that will work with this timer other than a zone vi?thanks
mitch
thanks to everyone for helping me .

I have an extra one. Its with the phone plug type connection, correct?

Let me know...I'm sure we could work out something.

ZorkiKat · Jun 25, 2006

How about the footswitch used for sewing machines?

Papa Tango · Jun 25, 2006

Don't think so

ZorkiKat said:
How about the footswitch used for sewing machines?

Nope. Those have a rheostat (variable resistance) in line with the voltage that allows an increasing amount of voltage to be applied to the motor, thus increasing the speed of the sewing machine as the pedal is pressed further. It is not a true switch.

Beseler footswitches can be modified to work with most mechanical timers, but this particular timer may need or have some special characteristic such as a dual contact or somesuch. Best to replace with original, and always with electronic unless you have some electronic bench experience.

I have seen pedals that were intended for musicians adapted to timer and enlarger lamp use. This is an option for Graylab and Time-O-Lite.

Donald Qualls · Jun 25, 2006

The beauty with Gralab is you can switch the line the timer is plugged into and everything works as intended. Switch the line power to a Time-o-Lite and it'll reset just as if it had finished its run -- and it won't turn the light back on, either; you'd need the switch to replace the one on the front panel that latches in the relay in order for the Time-o-Lite to operate at all on the foot switch, and even then you couldn't use the switch to interrupt an exposure (for instance, to switch dodging tools or move the card for the next burning step); you'd be committed to the entire exposure once you start the timer, by whatever means.

mitch brown · Jun 26, 2006

the timer i have is a zone vi solid state drydown timer .

GeorgesGiralt · Jul 3, 2006

wager123 said:
the timer i have is a zone vi solid state drydown timer .

Hi !
As it is solid state, I suppose there is a button to start timing.
If yes, solder two wires in this button, and route them inside to a plug (one convenient for you).
Get a sewing machine pedal (they are cheap, very sturdy and large enough to work into them).
Remove all variable current/tension parts used to control the sewing machine motor, only keep the box. Put a switch into the pedal (sometimes there is already one inside ) wire two wires and put at the other en the male plug you choose for the timer, et voila !
I've done this years ago for a Czeck Electronic Viponel timer ant it is still running fine ! I was given the pedal by a Singer corporation repairer (the pedal must be older than me...) So price is not an issue.
Just my 2 cents, here !

Steve Smith · Jul 3, 2006

Geoges idea above can also be done using a footswitch intended for musical applications. e.g. sustain pedal for electric pianos. These are cheap and are usually fitted with a 1/4" jack plug so all that is needed is a 1/4" socket on the unit wired as suggested.

Some of these footswitches are wired normally closed instead of the normally open option which is required here. As they are usually just microswitches in a plastic/metal housing, moving one wire will convert it to normally open operation.

Steve.

dianna · Feb 18, 2007

Just adding information to the thread for future reference. Woodworkers Supply has both an on/off and a momentary switch for around $17:

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=908-190&gclid=CIaEzpeeuIoCFQlzWAodmh7ruQ

resummerfield · Feb 18, 2007

dianna said:
Just adding information to the thread for future reference. Woodworkers Supply has both an on/off and a momentary switch for around $17:

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=908-190&gclid=CIaEzpeeuIoCFQlzWAodmh7ruQ

I purchased the footswitch from Woodworker’s Supply, but it was very cheaply made of plastic and only lasted a few weeks before it cracked. I replaced it with the “Clipper” model from Dead Link Removed. Linemaster manufacturers the best footswitch I have ever used. Linemaster sells direct, or for the best prices I’ve found, check the link to Herbach & Rademan posted by c6h6o3 above.

kwmullet · Feb 21, 2007

Woodworker's Supply footswitch came in.

It's plastic, as resummerfield mentioned. Our other footswitch feels like it's made of cast iron. It's made of solid metal, very simple construction, and easy for me to put gobs of sealing silicon in various places.

Even though this one is plastic, it doesn't seem terribly flimsy. Time will tell, I guess. There are mounting holes on the front and back, so I guess users could mount it to the leg of their sink or enlarger table/cabinet/stand and activate it with their knee.

At any rate. Here's what it looks like in the wild.

-KwM-

resummerfield · Feb 21, 2007

Yes, kwmullet, thats the exact one I purchased. If you are careful, and push in a straight line (no side loads), it should give reasonable service. In my case, it was loose on the floor and I would move my foot blindly looking for it, then step on it, sometimes only on the side. The fact that it has 2 cords (one entering and one exiting) makes it much less stable unless it is mounted firmly (and mine was not). Over time this erratic application caused it to crack. And I believe the interior parts are mostly press-fit.

After that one failure, I refitted the darkroom with Linemaster switches, both the Treadlite 2, which is smaller and more elegant (but lighter duty) and also the Clipper, which is cast-iron and built like a tank (my favorite). They both have only one cord, and lay flat and in the spot I select. My clumsy feet have never damaged either model.

I have some more of those plastic ones sold by Woodworkers Supply, both the on/off model and the 2-step (look in the Woodworker catalog), unused and I will never use them. So if anyone wants one for the cost of postage, PM me.

kwmullet · Feb 21, 2007

Eric,

In the extremely unlikely event that you don't get takers for all your switches here on APUG, I'm pretty darn certain that you'll find takers for the remainder in the Dead Link Removed at michaelandpaula.com.

-KwM-

foot switch

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