Fomapan + Rodinal

[mr. mohaupt]

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=Fomapan+100&Developer=Rodinal&mdc=Search

Pardon the ignorance but there are not many 120 developing times. I am guessing 1+50 ISO 100 would be a bit longer then 7 mins?

I would really like something more like 1+75



Thanks in advance!
~M

 

[fschifano]

Foma 100 is one of the few films I've used that I think looks good in Rodinal. I've used 35 mm, 120, and 4x5 stocks of this film, using the same time, temperature, and agitation scheme for all of them. It all works out to be pretty darned close. Foma gives development times for R09, which is very similar if not identical to Rodinal, and their recommendation doesn't jive with what's listed on the MDC. In the absence of any other data, I'd say go with the MDC. Since we do have the manufacturer's recommendation (here) I'd recommend starting there and making adjustments as necessary. Foma does not differentiate among the different formats.

 

[mr. mohaupt]

Thanks for the insite Frank. I will develop tonight at 1+50 @ 7 mins to see what I get.



~m

 

[RobertV]

Fomapan 100 in Rodinal 1+50 for 7:30 Minutes is very close to optimum.

 

[kavandje]

...and if you'd prefer 1+75, what's stopping you? Shoot a few test films, figure out what you need, and go for it.

 

[lns]

Fomapan 100 in Rodinal 1+50 for 7:30 Minutes is very close to optimum.

I second this. In fact, for me, Rodinal 1:50 for 7 minutes was enough. This was with the 120 film.

-Laura

 

[Venchka]

Do y'all get full speed, 100, from Rodinal? I find that Foma 200 works well at 100 in Xtol 1:3. I plan to use Rodinal as well. Just curious if your shadows are well exposed at box speed in Rodinal at 1:50.

 

[alanrockwood]

Any thoughts about foma 100 with Rodinal in a rotary processor at 75 degrees?

 

[fschifano]

Do y'all get full speed, 100, from Rodinal? I find that Foma 200 works well at 100 in Xtol 1:3. I plan to use Rodinal as well. Just curious if your shadows are well exposed at box speed in Rodinal at 1:50.

It depends, but usually it's pretty close. EI 80 is a safe bet if you have doubts. Even though I think the film looks good in Rodinal, I still prefer to use D-76 or XTOL. Shadow detail is, to my eye, a little better.

You mention Foma 200 in XTOL 1+3. I like that film in XTOL 1+1, but only if I run it for about 6 minutes at 75F. What do you time it at when using XTOL 1+3?

 

[Venchka]

It depends, but usually it's pretty close. EI 80 is a safe bet if you have doubts. Even though I think the film looks good in Rodinal, I still prefer to use D-76 or XTOL. Shadow detail is, to my eye, a little better.

You mention Foma 200 in XTOL 1+3. I like that film in XTOL 1+1, but only if I run it for about 6 minutes at 75F. What do you time it at when using XTOL 1+3?

To date I have had good luck with HP5+ @ 250, Foma 200 @ 100 and Delta 100 @ 100 in a Jobo tank, continuous agitation for 10 minutes at 68F.

 

[mr. mohaupt]

I developed my first roll of Foma last night and whoa I noticed something odd. When I first washed the film with just water the water that came out was GREEN! Then the second wash yielded Blue water! The subsequent washes (3-4) were just a lighter shade of blue. What's that all about?

Today I will be doing some printing and let you know about my results.

Thanks for the help.

~m

 

[RobertV]

For the 120 roll film version this is normal. BTW the blue dye in the polyester film will stay, whatever you do to wash it out. This is normal.

 

[fschifano]

You did a pre-soak? First, it's not necessary so you needn't bother with it unless you like doing it. I admit that pre-soaking is a reasonably ok way of tempering the tank, but there are other ways to accomplish the same thing. Second, that color you saw was the anti-halation coating coming off. It will come off in the developer too and does no harm. You might not notice the color coming off in the developer because the color can be neutralized by the developer. I've noticed this more with developers containing quite a bit of sodium sulfite like D-76. Not so much with Rodinal which contains almost none in the working solution.

 

[mr. mohaupt]

You did a pre-soak? First, it's not necessary so you needn't bother with it unless you like doing it. I admit that pre-soaking is a reasonably ok way of tempering the tank, but there are other ways to accomplish the same thing. Second, that color you saw was the anti-halation coating coming off. It will come off in the developer too and does no harm. You might not notice the color coming off in the developer because the color can be neutralized by the developer. I've noticed this more with developers containing quite a bit of sodium sulfite like D-76. Not so much with Rodinal which contains almost none in the working solution.

I presoak/wash my film as my first step because it was what I was told to do while in college. I was told it removes any dust and trace fingerprints you might have put on the film. *shrugs* I took it as truth.

The color was just interesting; what is anti-halation though?

~m

 

[fschifano]

I'd love to have been in that class if only to be there to tell the instructor that he (or she) was full of s**t.

 

[Atlo]

i was hoping to do very long stand development with some 4x5 arista.edu 100 (just fomapan from what i've heard). any suggestion on time/dilution?
this is the first 4x5 shooting or developing i've ever done, so please be gentle.

 

[alanrockwood]

Any thoughts about foma 100 with Rodinal in a rotary processor at 75 degrees?

I thought I would refresh the question again.

 

[SMBooth]

I thought I would refresh the question again.

Ive using 8.5min @ 20deg C using 1:100 Rodinal. That's a starting point for you.

 

[Tom Stanworth]

Foma 100 in 1+50 or more dilute is wonderful. The film seems very prone to drying marks with my water but has a unique look to it. I keep agitation to one swish per minute to control highlights as best I can and rate at 40-50 in the Leica depending on lighting.

 

[viridari]

I've really enjoyed working with Fomapan & Rodinal, but find that it scratches very easily when wet. I just hang them up with no squeegee and as long as they have had a wetting agent applied, they dry fine.

Hector
Mamiya C330
Mamiya-Sekor 80mm f/2.8 "blue dot"
orange filter
Sekonic L-358
Arista.EDU 200 (aka Fomapan 200)
Rodinal 1:25, 5m @ 20C
Vuescan

 

[ronlamarsh]

Stand DEv with TFX2

i was hoping to do very long stand development with some 4x5 arista.edu 100 (just fomapan from what i've heard). any suggestion on time/dilution?
this is the first 4x5 shooting or developing i've ever done, so please be gentle.

I have used FOMA 200(i.e.EDU Ultra 200) in formulary TFX2 stand dev. 25ml/25ml/h20 to make 1 litre agitate constant for the first minute let stand 15min agitate 1min let stand 15min. Very well controlled highlights nice long tonal scale. Rated film at 100 asa