Fomapan Reversal 2nd exposure yellow tint

[52cards]

Just developed my 1st roll of Fomapan R100 with Fomapans dedicated processing kit.

Problem is yellow tint due to the 2nd exposure I assume.

Will a shorter 2nd exposure be sufficient, or should I use chemical fogging?
Will adding hypo to the 1st developer and make a fresh 2nd developer help?

Thanks, Ulrik

 

[Ian Grant]

Could it be stain from the Reversal Bleach, I've no idea what Foma use in their kit, but if a bleach isn't cleared properly you get a yellowish stain.

Oh and welcome to APUG

Ian

 

[52cards]

Thank you - I just discovered APUG searching for b/w reversal solutions. Unfortunately after my purchase of the Fomapan set. Now I have to make the best of it. I have 7 film+developer left.
I guess it could be the bleach. Reading Jens Osbahr's excellent text "A Black&White Reversal Process, In Memory Of Agfa Scala 200x" points to the 2nd exposure as the problem.

How do you suggest a better clearing? Description says 3min. Should I agitate more?

 

[Ian Grant]

Not sure why Jens thinks that the reversal exposure causes the yellow stain. His PDF file seems to change quite frequently, as he adds more info.

Re-exposure using a bright bulb is common to most published processes, see (there was a url link here which no longer exists), and I've used quite a few over the years and never had a yellow stain.

I would increase the wash time after the Bleach bath and give good agitation while washing, same in the Clearing bath, again give a good rinse, do this in the dark.

Ian

 

[Ian Grant]

It's worth mentioning that it is important that the Bleach bath is made up with distilled or de-ionised water if possible, one problem can be water quality particularly in the summer when additional chlorination is sometimes added to water supplies. Boiling the water might be sufficient.

Any chlorine/chloride present would cause very slight Rehalogenation of the original negative image, possibly enough to cause a stain. If you've ever used a Dichromate/HCl intensifier you would know the characteristic yellow stain that is created.

Looking at another Reversal process there is strong emphasis on the washing prior to the Bleach and suggesting a 3 minute wash in rapidly running water after it. It is critical to remove all traces of the bleach.

Ian

 

[52cards]

Thanks for your advise Ian, I'm exposing my 2nd roll now, and wait with developing till I get some distilled water tomorrow to leave out that possibility.
I'm actually duplicating a set of slides shot on scala for an exhibition so I have excellent consistency in the exposures for comparison of my developing techniques.
I did make a fairly nice set using a fuji velvia 50, but I felt like cheating by reproducing b/w work in "color".

 

[52cards]

Tried with distilled water and was very careful with the wash, I think it's a little better. Perhaps it's the characteristics of the film. Compared to the Scala film I'm trying to reproduce it's very warm. Somehow it came out with a little less detail in the shadows and a little lighter.

 

[Ian Grant]

The second developer is to finality, however if there's thiocyanate (or sometimes Thiosulphate) present as is the case when you re-use the first developer there's a strong silver solvent present, this has to have an effect on the D-max, probably also the image colour.

So as Alessandro says it's not particularly good to re-use the first developer, but you'd be better using a second developer without Thiocyanate or Thiosulphate.

Ian

 

[52cards]

I just developed on roll with a fresh 2nd developer - tint is gone! Now the problem is that there is not enough developer in the Foma kit, having to mix twice as much developer. Could I use another developer? The bottle says Developer for Fomapan Reversal. Contains Hydrochinon, Hydroquinone.

 

[52cards]

Thanks guys - without your help I would have given up on the Fomapan kit. The Fomapan is really really beautiful when it works. Steel gray. Glad I found APUG forum. Thanks.