Fomapan developed at commercial labs

[alanrockwood]

Are there any labs that give black and white films the correct development time according to the film type?

For example, Fomapan 100 is known to take less development time than most other black and white films of similar speed. If given processing time similar to other black and white films the result is overdeveloped negatives.

I just contacted Dwaynes to see if they optimize the development time for Fomapan 100 to the film type. Their reply was that they process all 100 iso black and white films to the same development time. A local lab near where I live did the same thing. (That local lab has since closed, after the death of the owner.)

Are there any labs out there that give each film the correct development, or is this another case of "if you want something done right you have to do it yourself."?

 

[chip j]

My lab develops my B&W films according to the times I give them,. But their machine scratched my Fomapan because the Foma is not hardened. ALL other films come out fine. My lab is rudinec@runinec.com--NEOhio.

 

[Rick A]

For optimum results, you must process the film yourself. You are the only one who knows your shooting style and preferences.

 

[summicron1]

For optimum results, you must process the film yourself. You are the only one who knows your shooting style and preferences.

was just gonna say this same thing. Buy a changing bag, two steel reels and a tank that fits them, two brown chemical jugs (developer and fix) and a quick-read thermometer and you're in business. You'll save a fortune and the times will be correct.

freestyle has everything, or browse the local craigslist or whatever passes for classified ads these days -- you can find entire darkrooms for sale very cheep.

 

[mauro35]

Fomapan is a different beast. Processed at the same time of other 100 ISO films will result in higher contrast and the highlights will accumulate density very fast.

 

[NickLimegrove]

Are there any labs out there that give each film the correct development, or is this another case of "if you want something done right you have to do it yourself."?

If by correct development you mean »use a suitable dev time for a specific film« -- then, yes, most labs will do that. But as most labs will be processing your film in a big tank together with other films of all kinds, they will use one and the same developer for all of them. And as these films will come from all kinds of people doing very different things to their films, that developer will have to be to be some sort of ›universal‹ developer that will level these differences, to make sure all of them come out equally okay-ish. If for example I were to have my films developed at the lab that's operated by a renowned local photo retailer and APUG partner, they'd soup them in A49, a developer that (1) seeks to minimize graininess by dissolving the edges of the grain inherent in the film and (2) seeks to ›compensate‹ contrast by flattening the response curve at an ›earlier‹ point than other developers [what would be the North American counterpart of A49/Atomal?]. Both these characteristics are excellent in this particular context: you'll have less customers complain about graininess (they may not notice the compromised acutance because their negs were never too sharp in the first place), and you'll be able to give them more easily printable negatives even if they botched up their exposure. Will it be a »correct development« by the standards of what you have in mind? You decide...

 

[mrred]

If you are not going to develop yourself, find a great lab first. Then ask what films they handle. Once the film has been developed, there is little need to be of a special brand as opposed to being developed of high quality standards.

 

[Ian Grant]

I used to process for a few photographers when I had a photographic business, we also processed all the B&W films for a local pro-lab when it was first setting up.

Most films would be processed together for the same times in deep tanks, it was the only economic way. Some films would be processed separately but this was time s=consuming so we had to charge more.

Fomapan films are excellent but they do need processing separately, so you'll pay a lab a premium to do them. I'd offer but I'm the wrong side of the Atlantic

Ian

 

[ericdan]

C-41 and E-6 is standardized. Same process no matter what film and how you shoot it except for push processing. But that doesn't hold for B&W film. I had my first few rolls developed at a lab and was very disappointed. I just started developing at home. Much better, more fun and I control the results.

 

[MDR]

Fomapan needs a pro-lab hand processing and not a high temperature uniform processing pseudo minilab that is used by most film labs. The film is capable of superb results but most non pro labs are doing their best at killing Tri-X and other much more forgiving films. So as you said it is a case of "if you want something done right you have to do it yourself."

DR5 seems to individually process film though not only reversal but also negative processing http://dr5.com/bwneg.html

 

[Xmas]

was just gonna say this same thing. Buy a changing bag, two steel reels and a tank that fits them, two brown chemical jugs (developer and fix) and a quick-read thermometer and you're in business. You'll save a fortune and the times will be correct.

freestyle has everything, or browse the local craigslist or whatever passes for classified ads these days -- you can find entire darkrooms for sale very cheep.

Noop
Get some one who has gone to DPUG to give you their tank, gbag, ... enlarger, timer, trays etc., plead poverty.

You may need to buy a micro balance and lab coat.

Pick a D-76 clone as the basic recipe is/was for replenishment so D-76d is better or Microphen ~ the latter 1/3 of a stop faster in shadow detail.

http://www.lostlabours.co.uk/photography/formulae/developers/devD76_variants.htm

If you share a bathroom you will need a plastic tube 7 foot long about 40mm internal diameter to hang film to dry in Muslin over bottom light bulb for hot air below.

120/220 needs larger diam tube.

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/aboutus/page.asp?n=31