Fomapan 100 2 stop push.

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xBaxterx

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I recently shot a roll of Fomapan 100 at 400 and want to develop it in Xtol but cant seem to find any data on this combination.

Has anyone had any experience at pushing Foma by 2 stops or have any advice for developing times?
 
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It's an extreme situation, so I'm going to recommend a process that will help develop the shadows while holding back the highlights. Foma 100 doesn't usually give full shadow detail even at box speed, so you're really push processing closer to three stops than two.

If you have Xtol on hand, dilute it 1+3. Develop for about 18-20 minutes, agitating for the first 30 seconds continuously, and then 10s every five minutes. You will lose some shadow detail.
 

TareqPhoto

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If i were you then i will shoot another 1-2 rolls of Fomapan 100 @400 then develop each with XTOL at different time, one with say 10 minutes and the other in 20 minutes, then compare both, if you find one is giving you slightly better result then develop your main roll at about 2-3 minutes closer to the one you like [if 10 min then develop at 12-13 min, if 20 min is preferable then develop at 17-18 min].

I know it is not so practical or economical, but i always enjoy testing and experimenting with film, and that 5L of XTOL is plenty so i can use many films and still i have some remaining, just only film could be a cost issue [if it is LF sheet then expensive to buy many packs, but no harm to waste 1-2 sheets from one pack for test], 35mm films are reasonable prices and i can buy 10 rolls of one film.
 
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xBaxterx

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Thanks for the replys!

I am bulk loading the Fomapan so its not a major to load up another couple of smaller rolls and do some testing with times.
The roll itself does not have super important shots on it, just some street stuff i took while walking around with my Olympus XA, but I thought it would be fun to see what it looked like pushed.
 
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Pushed, Foma 100 will lack shadow detail, and with extended developing time you will increase contrast.

That's why I recommended a technique where you agitate as little as possible, which helps keep the highlights from developing too far and block up. Xtol is really good for this purpose anyway, and diluted with less agitation it is exceptional at it.
As a bonus, when you develop the film longer, and let it stand for longer intervals than usual, you actually DO help the shadows develop further, to the point where it makes a difference.

Good luck! Don't forget to have fun with it.
 
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If you have Xtol on hand, dilute it 1+3. Develop for about 18-20 minutes, agitating for the first 30 seconds continuously, and then 10s every five minutes. You will lose some shadow detail.

I'm learning to process film and followed the above recipe. Well, mostly. Temperature increased from 20º to 22º due to the dev tank temperature; I stopped developing at 18.5 minutes. The results look to have reasonable (not excessive) contrast. Samples below.

waterreflexion_small.jpg
Overcast, dull light

park_small.jpg
Bright sunshine

hibiscuslace_small.jpg
Bright sunshine, in shade
 
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Tom1956

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The fact of the matter is, if Acufine calls for a speed of 100 with Fomopan 100 film, pushing to 400 is not possible. If Acufine can't do it, nothing can.
 

Xmas

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Google Formapan 100 datasheet
I use Microphen 1:0 (stock) at 10 mins 20C 400ISO and the datasheet looks to be real.
@about 160 ISO
On a low contrast day 400 ISO is printable with some burning in shadows.
Id not recommend the Formapan 400 at 1600... pushing your luck there...
they are both nice films no quality issues nice grain
 
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