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Fomabrom Variant III FB safelight sensitization

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Tom Kershaw

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The PDF for Fomabrom Variant III contains a graph showing orthochromatic sensitization, reinforced by the document's text. Suggesting red filters such as ILFORD 906 or Kodak GBX-2. My standard safelighting is provided by a central safelight hanging from the ceiling with 8"x10" and 10"x12" ILFORD 902 filters (25W bulb). As I do not own '906' type filters I would need to set up my additional safelights with red filters. I've not yet tested for fogging under the 902 filters.

I know red filtration is recommend for Adox Vario Classic papers but does but does anyone have experience using the Fomabrom Variant papers under orange type safelights?

Tom.
 
I don't recall whether I had tried the Variant III or the Fomatone Classic, maybe I tried both, but I had fogging under amber safelights. I did the test and had fogging in under 2 minutes. So did Kentmere. I apologize that I don't know the number of the filters or wattage of the bulb. But it did fog.
On another thread I had asked about fogging of Adox under amber light and Mr. Moersch responded:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
I just received a box of the Adox and can't wait to try it!
 
I've experienced no fogging on any of the Foma papers with an amber safelight.
 
I experienced fogging with Fomabrom Variant III FB (did tests) with orange light. I switched to red, after that no problems at all :smile:
 
Foma papers require a red safelight. Any amber or orange and it'll fog. Even the RC papers.
 
I've experienced no fogging on any of the Foma papers with an amber safelight.

Travis

Then your safelight must be very dim (far away) or you are working very quick. Amber safelights are not safe enough for this paper.
 
Thanks for confirming Ralph. What are your general impressions of the Foma Variant papers?

Tom

I use the 312 RC version - it's quite nice. Fine surface with a subtle amount of lustre and tones decently. Foma make nice papers all around.
 
I use Arista EDU paper, which is essentially Fomabrom VC III FB, with an orange safelight all the time in my school's lab. As long as you keep the exposure to the safelight to less than 10 minutes (before the fixing bath), and the safelight is at least a few feet away, you should be fine.

If you are worried, you can always do a test—cut an unexposed paper into three strips, put a quarter on each strip; develop the first strip after 3 minutes, the next after 6, the next after 9. If you can see the outline of the quarter (i.e. a bright circle) in any of the developed papers, that paper has fogged.
 
I think there are two pdfs floating about on the 'net, one which is outdated, but here is the info from the most recent version:

"Safelighting
FOMABROM VARIANT III is an ortochromatically sensitized photographic paper.
Therefore, a suitable safelighting differing from that for conventional photographic
papers should be used. Dark-red safelight filters for orthochromatic materials, e.g.
Kodak GBX-2, Ilford 906, Agfa R1, Osram Duka 50, etc. in connection with a 15 Watt
lamp are fully suitable. More comfortable and user friendlier light sources may be
used with orange LED diodes, eventually orange filters however with a safe wave
length band pass over 610 nm.
Because of its high speed, FOMABROM VARIANT
III should be exposed to this safelighting only for a time prerequisite to handling."

The pdf is located at http://www.foma.cz/Upload/foma/prilohy/F_brom_var_en.pdf

For my own part, I have only started out using the paper, it's really nice, but dark red safelights isn't funny at all... Looking at trying LEDs next.

Also, I think people need to look at which paper you actually are using, there are at least three Fomabroms; FIII VC, FIII fixed grade and Fomabrom IV 123. And from the pdfs they require different safelights.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
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If you are worried, you can always do a test—cut an unexposed paper into three strips, put a quarter on each strip; develop the first strip after 3 minutes, the next after 6, the next after 9. If you can see the outline of the quarter (i.e. a bright circle) in any of the developed papers, that paper has fogged.

This is not a reliable test, but a minor change makes it useful.

Don't use unexposed paper, because it is less sensitive to additional safelight exposure than already exposed paper.

To make the test more realistic, determine beforehand the exposure required to create a light gray. Then 'sensitize' the paper with that exposure (no development of course) and conduct the test as outlined above. I prefer 2, 4, 8, 16 and 32 minutes.
 
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