alanrockwood
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The truth is that I had some problem with f100 120 classic, some scratches was there, but I suppose that it was only a matter of czech local market. We have another version here - fomapan 100 proffesional which is probably the classic version abroad and this version is ok without scratches..
The truth is that I had some problem with f100 120 classic, some scratches was there, but I suppose that it was only a matter of czech local market. We have another version here - fomapan 100 proffesional which is probably the classic version abroad and this version is ok without scratches..
First, artifacts in the form of irregular short, straight scratches across or rather along the pictures. The problem is described and documented on several sites across the web and explained as interaction between backing paper, film and transport mechanism in some cameras (Hasselblad, Rollei TLR). It is supposed to be fixed by Foma some years ago, but I still encountered it with film I bought about a year ago directly from Foma.
PRO is better if you can choose..So which is which?
PRO is better if you can choose..
I use Fomapan 200 and 400 in my Rolleifle,Rolleicord and my Microcord, with no problems such as described above, in fact it is impeccable, and the sticky band at the end never causes problems in the Tlr's, sometime it will catch and come off with one or two of my folders, but that is not a problem, simply remove from the pressure plate and use, as far as the backing paper, Foma seem to have replaced the backing paper recently, they appear to be using a backing paper the same as Ilford, white, and very smooth, but still with the frame Nos printed in bold black, I have used several of the new backed paer recently without out a problem as Kodak have recently had, and seem to have solved, Can't comment in any way with the Fomapan reversal film, which over here seems to have dissapeared from sale,
Do you know in what way?
I remember reading that the "pro" film was supposed to be cut from the middle portion of the master roll, while the standard was taken from the sides, where there is a higher likeliness of defects showing up (in theory?).
I've seen straight scratches on some of my 120 Foma 200 negatives. Googled and googled, but I never found something that described it. Do you happen to know where to find info about this issue?
Certainly the paper has been creeping in for a while now, I still have some of the old papers, the all black and some that were green at the start then black with white numbers, so I imagine that they were using up all the old stock of paper, but for the last few batches I have got the backing paper was the white, but I have used all the papers in my Tlr's, Rolleiflex,cord and Microcord for many years and I have never had problems, certainly I have never had a roll jam in any camera,, and certainly I have never had a scratch problem with mine, although I have only once used some 100, and that was 135, I tend to use 400 as for many of the subjects I take I need the faster speed, in fact even with 400 sometimes my shutter speeds are down to 1/2 second, hand held, with folders and Tlr's, and never in at least 15 or possibly more of using Fomapan for everything,The last Fomapan 100 professional I shot (the batch that gave me the jamming problem every other roll or so) was (IIRC) bought at the end of 2016 directly from Foma. It still had the old (all black with white numbers) backing paper.
If there have been indeed recently made changes to the backing paper as you indicate then I would be willing to give the film another shot. Maybe the scratch problem is also solved with the new backing paper.
In the UK their is not a ot of difference in price between Foma and Ilford, in fact I believe that the HP5+ 35mm 36 is cheaper, I shoot fomapan simply because I like it better than either Ilford or Kodak, and as I have not had a problem of any sort in over 15 years of using it I will continue to use itDo people typically shoot Foma just because it is cheaper?
Interesting point but even if there is a greater likelihood of defects showing up i.e. being present simply because the standard film was taken from the sides and not the middle, surely the QC should ensure that the sides are checked for defects so that defective film does not get through to any greater an extent?I remember reading that the "pro" film was supposed to be cut from the middle portion of the master roll, while the standard was taken from the sides, where there is a higher likeliness of defects showing up (in theory?).
The results I got in 35mm were absolutely stunning. Unfortunately I got scratches in 120 when using my Pentax 645N. Last week I shot Foma 200 from a different batch with a different medium format camera. On first sight the negs look great, but I haven't had a change to print them yet.Do people typically shoot Foma just because it is cheaper?
Yes, I am interested! Never saw negs with the same scratches as mine. Very curious to know whether or not we're suffering from the same issue.For example
https://www.flickr.com/groups/86738082@N00/discuss/72157623645047064/
I also remember reading some related discussions here on Photrio/APUG some time ago. If you're interested I am sure I could dig out a scan of a negative that shows the type of "scratches" I am talking about.
Interesting point but even if there is a greater likelihood of defects showing up i.e. being present simply because the standard film was taken from the sides and not the middle, surely the QC should ensure that the sides are checked for defects so that defective film does not get through to any greater an extent?
Otherwise it sounds as if Foma might be saying that the customer pays less but the quid pro quo is that he accepts that the percentage of defective film getting through to customers is greater and that Foma cannot or will not invest in the QC to the extent that the risk of a greater wastage through defects remains a cost to the film maker and not the customer.
If it works in the way you describe in the quote then we all better look out if Ilford decides to market a standard and pro version of say HP5+
Some companies do use the category of "pro" but I'd be surprised if any base this on the message that the customer takes the greater risk of defects.
pentaxuser
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