Foma 100 @ EI25?

Oops.

Not the worst thing I've done, unfortunately.
Set up the 8x10 at a beautiful shot (thankfully, the kind I can always take again, at least).
Using my new Fujinon W 210mm, but I don't have a step-ring steep enough that doesn't vignette (58mm Cokin Z adapter is in the mail as we speak).
Not a problem, I've got a 105mm Orange 4x filter, I can easily hold that over the lens as I take the picture.
So I meter with the L608 spotmeter, holding the filter over the meter's lens to get an accurate reading, set the aperture and speed and all that.
Then, as pretty much always happens when I pull out the 8x10, a crowd gathers around, I take the shot, and completely forget to hold the orange filter over the lens.

So in effect, I've just shot it at EI25. Like I said, oops.

I've got xtol (if it still works), rodinal, microphen (also rather old and not good for pulling), and caffenol (ingredients) handy, and I'm doing it rotary in my CL81. I'd use perceptol but I don't actually have any, and I'd like to get this processed within 24 hours so I can reuse the holder on my trip over the weekend.

Anyone have any tips for processing? Anyone else ever drastically overexpose Foma100 and have any good starting times?

Rodinal 1:100 stand for 30 mins 20c will wet print ok might need hard grade paper do it in a tray if you can't not rotate, you need to hold back the highlights a stop at least by the stand...

Dr Croubie said:

So in effect, I've just shot it at EI25.
Anyone have any tips for processing? Anyone else ever drastically overexpose Foma100 and have any good starting times?

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There is always conflicting advice given on this sort of situation, but that given by the people whose advice I trust at APUG seems to be "It's only two stops over, process normally" ...

when I've followed this advice myself after overexposure, I've always had perfectly good results.

pdeeh said:

There is always conflicting advice given on this sort of situation, but that given by the people whose advice I trust at APUG seems to be "It's only two stops over, process normally" ...

when I've followed this advice myself after overexposure, I've always had perfectly good results.

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That is true even here.
But if an orange filter was used it may be contrasty day and have burnt high lights Fomapan 100 is not a high dynamic range film as APX100. The Rodinal will hold the toe speed up the stand pull the highlights down.
I'd stand it as above I'd expect to need to split grade it as well.
After 2 minutes in dilute acetic acid a dim safe light is safe for hypo

Its hardly a stop. True speed of Foma is not 100. Give Xtol and you will be able to get luminous shadows and details in highlights.

baachitraka said:

Its hardly a stop. True speed of Foma is not 100. Give Xtol and you will be able to get luminous shadows and details in highlights.

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The true speed in Xtol or Microphen is 100 at 0.6 gamma

http://www.foma.cz/en/fomapan-100

There is every risk of blown highlights in my experience so I normally use 125 ISO and accept risks of bad zone 1 shadows but I bracket if I have time...

I get box speed on both Fomapan 200 and 400 in Rodinal/RO9 and D76 stock, I have both over and under exposed 400 and 200 by up to 1 1/2 stops and developed normally and could not see much if any difference, so in my experiance 125 is only 1/4 stop out so develop normally and all should be fine, don't worry about it, Fomapan is a very forgiving film

R.Gould said:

I get box speed on both Fomapan 200 and 400 in Rodinal/RO9 and D76 stock, I have both over and under exposed 400 and 200 by up to 1 1/2 stops and developed normally and could not see much if any difference, so in my experiance 125 is only 1/4 stop out so develop normally and all should be fine, don't worry about it, Fomapan is a very forgiving film

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I'd recommend you try the 100 I've not tried the new 320 but the early adopters seem to be enthusiastic about it.

R.Gould said:

I get box speed on both Fomapan 200 and 400 in Rodinal/RO9 and D76 stock, I have both over and under exposed 400 and 200 by up to 1 1/2 stops and developed normally and could not see much if any difference, so in my experiance 125 is only 1/4 stop out so develop normally and all should be fine, don't worry about it, Fomapan is a very forgiving film

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Its EI25 not 125.

Ive tried the 100, lovely film, but for 90% of the photography I do at this time of the year it would be too slow for me, I take a lot of photographs in very dimly lit barns and interior, mostly hand held, and my exposures with 400 are often in the 1/2 to 1/15 range, I use mostly old rangefinder/viewfinder cameras with leaf shutters, folders, both MF and 35mm, or my Rolleis, so handholding for me and low speeds is possible, but I need the faster film, I understand that the new 320 is going to be made available in 35mm cassetes, and if so I will give it a try, but as I don't have a bulk loader, I am not going to get a bulk length,a lot of film if I don't like it,It is currently only available from Process Supplies, and from the reports I have got it is very good

baachitraka said:

Its EI25 not 125.

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Excellent spot but...
You forgot the smiley?

I personally would develop as normal. My experience with Fomapan 100 is it's really only iso 50, and you probably only get a rich, slightly dense, very printable negative.

Xmas said:

Excellent spot but...
You forgot the smiley?

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I'm watching Ashes...

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On principle I don't watch if they pick the team on favs they are likely to get white washed, even given the opposition may need walking frames - they are so old.

My experience with Fomapan 100 is that the highlights block up very easily. The film develops density very quickly.

I would give a 20% less developing time than normal.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
Unfortunately, the xtol is off. Dunked a leader in it in broad daylight, hadn't done anything after 5 mins, then it still cleared in fixer (eventually, fixer is old too).
So down to Rodinal and Caffenol, maybe microphen although that's nearly a year old too.

The thing with a stand dev is, I love to do them, but can't really afford it for 8x10s. In my CL81, that's nearly 2.5L of liquid to cover it all. Or in trays I have to sit in the darkroom (on the cold bathroom floor) for an hour doing nothing, I can't open the door and leave because then it's not really a darkroom anymore.
So that's why I pretty much have to do rotary for 8x10s. So I'm just going to experiment with caffenol and put it down to a learning experience. I've got another sheet exposed at ei 100, so I'm just going to do them together and compare the results. If I get one good one the other one will be thin or bulletproof, otherwise if I manage to get the time right down the middle I'll get one slightly over and one slightly under.

I know I'm late to the party but I did the same thing this past Saturday. I developed the negatives tonight in HC-110 for 25% less than the Massive dev chart recommended, so 9 minutes, and it looks like they came out pretty good.

Proof, once again, that caffenol can work miracles.
I've developed 40 year old film in Caffenol-C-L stand and gotten better negs than fresh film in real developers.

Now I just did this in Caffenol-C-M, 750ml + 40g Soda + 12g Vit C + 30g Homebrand Gutrot. Jobo CL81, 13 mins @ 20C.
You can barely even see which one was the wrong one.



The cows were metered properly and are missing a bit of shadow in the tree and the black cow, but the tan one in the middle looks about bang on. The sky was overcast so I was expecting that to be blown out anyway.
The trees were where I forgot the filter, and came up beautifully.

(at least in the negs, I might change my mind once I print them).

Rick A said:

I personally would develop as normal. My experience with Fomapan 100 is it's really only iso 50, and you probably only get a rich, slightly dense, very printable negative.

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This. Develop normally or if the scene was contrasty you can afford to reduce development a bit.

Should be no problem. The only negative effect [pun intended] from a stop overexposure is increased grain and this won't matter at all in 8x10.


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Thomas Bertilsson said:

My experience with Fomapan 100 is that the highlights block up very easily. The film develops density very quickly.

I would give a 20% less developing time than normal.

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+1

I've shot Fomapan 100 after forgetting to close the aperture of my 8x10 lens...7 stops over! Black and white film is supposed to tolerate excess exposure so I went ahead and reduced development by 50%. All the tonal gradations were there; no depth of field though. A one or two stop error is easily compensated by a small development change; like Thomas says.