Yes, although there are instructions out there for simple modifications that permit use of 120 film at least on the feed side.Don't the Kodak Tourists use 620 spools?
Yes, although there are instructions out there for simple modifications that permit use of 120 film at least on the feed side.
Also, there are a wide variety of lenses and shutters distributed between the various iterations.
Re-spooling only takes a few minutes. Problems might arise removing and replacing the tape, but every time I did it the tape came off fine and stuck again.
I was referring to one time modifications of the cameras.Ive read all about it but it looks a lot of hassle plus you run the risk of damaging or exposing the film. I bought some re-spooled 620 film for my dad to use in his Brownie. The problem is there is no real demand for it.
I might get a Bessa I.
Bessa RF w/ a Heliar. Much cheaper than a Bessa II w/ the same lens, and while it will be uncoated, it will rival any 6x9 camera, folding or not. If you don't want to pay that much ($275-$400), you could look for one w/ a Skopar lens. It's a little sharper than the Heliar, but won't have that same 3-D look.
I agree with the more cautious voices here. These old folders have limitations and it is in most cases not only the lenses that limit the possible image quality, but also the mechanical design. To be fair, there are some quite capable 35mm and 6x6 folding cameras (I do like my Agfa Isolette III and use it to shoot pretty 6x6 slides when I hike in the mountains), but when it gets to 6x9 it seems that the design inherent problems with film flatness, rigidness, lens sharpness, lack of stabilizing weight, quirky shutter releases, front cell focusing etc. get out of control.
I had various Bessas (I, II, RF) and the cameras and lenses from a technical standpoint more or less sucked (Color-Skopar coated, Heliar uncoated, Heliar coated ...) --- even after careful collimation. I still have a Agfa Record and its Solinar lens is much more capable than any of the Bessa lenses I have used, but it has some issues with film flatness (or was it parallelity of the front lens?). The last cm or so of the negative on the left side is always soft. Which reminds me that the film flatness on my Bessa I owned tended to be "all over the place", despite applying all the usual countermeasure like winding the film immediately before shooting etc. I think the Ikontas have the best build quality and probably come closest to being a precision instrument. But we have to keep in mind that these cameras where sold to amateurs and negatives were mostly contact printed at the time, so the results where not viewed with the same scrutiny that we apply nowadays..
The issue you saw with the Voigtländer folders and uneven focus across the negative mirrors my own experience. In every case I've seen, the issue has invariably been the lens standard being out of parallel with the film plane. The construction of the Voigtländers is mechanically elegant but not as robust as the Zeiss equivalents. It is not at all difficult to tweak the lens standard square - remove the shutter assembly and using a plunge micrometer, take measurements at multiple points (measuring the depth against the pressure plate) and simply bend the standard (yes, you can do it by hand, which explains why many of them are out of square at this point) until the measurements match up. All of my Voigtländers are now quite sharp across the frame as a result of this procedure.
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