Focussing and using the Koni-Omega.....tips?

[hoffy]

Howdy all,

As some may have seen, I acquired a Koni-Omega rapid over the weekend. I am going through my paces, running my first roll of film through it and as per normal, I have questions.....

OK, a bit of a disclaimer here. Apart from the occasional P&S, generally I have only used 35mm SLR equipment, so please be gentle!

What I would like to know, is there any general tips to the focussing of the camera? While I get the concept of getting the super imposed image to match the image in the view finder, from my first feeble attempts, it doesn't seem straight forward to me yet. I have noticed that dependant on the angle that I tilt the camera, means that the super imposed image doesn't quite match all the way around (unless I am dead on square to the object I am focussing on). Should I accept that the area where the images match closest is generally the point of focus?

Also, out of the framing lines, I assume that the ones on the far outside are to be used? The ones that are in the centre (that do come and go a bit) are more for composition?

Any advice is welcome. I am sure that I have plenty more questions, as I have not been as genuinely excited about a camera purchase as this one for a LONG time and I want to get using this camera right and not waste too much film (Yee Gods! 10 frames per roll….man, that is going to take some getting used too!)

Cheers

 

[MattKing]

hoffy:

Have you reviewed the manual for the camera? The manual for the Rapid M is available from Mike Butkus' site.

With respect to the framing lines, there are lines/indicators for 3 lenses in the viewfinder - the 90mm on the outside, and inside them the 135mm, and inside them the 180mm.

The field of view for the 58mm/60mm lens is too wide for the viewfinder (thus the need for the accessory finder).

There is also the superimposed rangefinder image right in the middle.

With respect to that rangefinder image, it will of course only match exactly when you are concentrating on a flat subject that is on the same plane as the camera. For other subjects, the image will only match exactly on the line that is the focussed distance away from the camera - items closer or farther won't match exactly.

You will find that everything works best when you have the camera square and parallel with the front of your face. Twisting and turning the camera relative to your eye will make the framing lines and rangefinder image harder to see.

If you can, view through your right eye, and keep your left eye open (some cannot do this).

 

[5stringdeath]

Yep, my fairly-new-to-me Koni is a bit different from previous rangefinders I have used (mostly Leicas, hah) so ... its finicky. My eye has to be right on center and the camera does need to be fairly level (or is that plumb?) Anyhow, I got used to it pretty fast, and can focus pretty fast too. If this is your first rangefinder, don't worry, you'll get used to it. Mine is still very bright and easy to see.

 

[hoffy]

OK, mine is relatively bright. And yes, I know I should read the manual . I'm have skim read it and probably missed the bit about the composition lines.....

Cheers

 

[5stringdeath]

OK, mine is relatively bright. And yes, I know I should read the manual . I'm have skim read it and probably missed the bit about the composition lines.....

Cheers

Well its a very important thing to know and learn to use with any rangefinder .. cause if you're composing with the wrong lines, you will get surprise negatives! Also realize in general, that not all rangefinders have lines for every lens ... ... so what you see in your viewfinder is:

Small center "solid" box is your rangefinder focus
Small box with dot corners - 180mm
Next larger box with dot corners - 135mm
Largest box with dot corners - 90mm

As stated before the wide angle 58/60mm lens needs an external viewfinder.

So you see an immediate disadvantage AND advantage .... unlike an SLR, if you are shooting with the 180mm all your composition etc has to be done in that small box ... the image doesn't get "bigger" for you in the viewfinder. However, the advantage is, you can watch things move in and out of your frame while still looking through the camera. Its a very useful tool. In fact I don't really think its a disadvantage at all, but it depends on the kind of work you do I suppose.

 

[hoffy]

Hmmm, thats not quite what I am seeing. Let me look at the manual before I make any further suggestions, as all I am seeing is the Focus Square, a slightly larger box (which only appears about about 7 feet on the focus scale) and a larger again box... (I had been composing with the larger box with my 90mm......)

cheers

 

[hoffy]

OK, from the manual for the rapid:

The field of view of the normal lens is delineated by the larger luminous frame, the telephoto's by the smaller. Both frames change their position and area depending on distance focused on (automatic parallax and angle of view compensation). The telephoto frame disappears when normal or wide angle lenses are in the camera and are focused at closer distances

So, it appears that there may be differences from the original rapid and later models.

And the lesson learnt for the day.....if in doubt, read the manual!

 

[5stringdeath]

Yes I have a Rapid 200