Focusing screen for OM-1/OM-2 when shooting low-light(in-door) with flash(bounce).

[baachitraka]

Hello,

I was shooting some in-door portraits with a hammer head from Metz.

Camera: OM-2sp with split image micro prism collar focusing screen.

Problem: Low-light and very hard to see the split image through view finder, since the room was only lit with candles.

I am thinking to change the focusing screen to 1-1 microprism matte, but I have no idea whether this helps in situations like above.

 

[nsurit]

Either a Beatie screen or one of the Olympus 2 screens might help. 2-4 or 2-13. Not easy to find and command a pretty high price. Bill Barber

 

[Rick A]

I have a 1-10 checkered matte focus screen in one of my OM-1's. It really is easier to focus in low light, with long tele's and for macro work. It also allows the meter to make accurate readings.

 

[Ken N]

As you are using an OM-2S, you have the benifit of the 100% mirror-box metering, so changing out the focus screen will not affect your exposures. I also recommend a 2-4 or 2-13 screen. The Beaties are really nice, but rare.

How bright is the 2-series screen? It's as bright as the center split image microprism area. Estimates are that it's two stops brighter.

However, there is a dark side to the 2-series screens. With some wide angle lenses it is difficult to judge accurate focus on the matte area because the bokeh spread is limited by the angles of the microprism mesh which makes up the matte area. For telephotos, the 2-series screens rock. For wide angle lenses the gain is not so much. But the bright screen does make framing and comping so much easier.

 

[baachitraka]

I was thinking to put a red-LED torch on top of the camera or fix it firm to the hammer head, as focus assist.

Hmm...Beattie is expensive than my camera. :-(

 

[Ken N]

In rereading the original post, I'd suggest that you were in a worse case situation. I've been known to use flash lights to focus with. Oh, one other little trick (which isn't necessarily eye friendly for your portrait subjects, so beware) is to shine a laser pointer through the eyepiece of your camera. have it shining on the matte surface, not split image area. The red dot will project put through the lens onto the subject. Adjust focus until it is sharp.

 

[baachitraka]

I presume a red LED torch will be sufficient for me, if it has rotation head and some provision for screw mount at the bottom with an easy on/off switch.

 

[Rick A]

You can always guestimate distance and preset focus via distance scale, and allow DOF to make up the difference.