Focuser for enlarging

[haris]

Hello,

What do you think about Paterson Micro and Macro grain "focuser"? I currently have Kaiser and Meopta "focuser" which focus on part of scene, not focus on grain. I can tell you Meopta is easier for me to use, more brighter and "cleaner" picture, thus easier to focus with it.

So, my question is, is there any improvement in using mentioned grain focuser instead of those I told I have, that is, is there point to get one of grain focusers, and which one. Currently I make up to 30x40cm enlargements from 35, 6x6, and 6x7 negatives.

Thanks.

 

[richard ide]

I think a grain focusser is a big improvement. I have been using a "Micromega" which has an ability to work very well off axis. I used others for several years which now collect dust.

 

[Dave Miller]

The grain focusers are a little more accurate, but not much. Which of the two Patterson models to get depends on how high the focusing control on your enlarger is. Can you reach it whilst looking through the eyepiece when making big enlargments? I have both the Patterson grain focusers, and given the second-hand price would recommend you buy both as well. I also use the type of bench focuser that you mention for some of my “grainless” negatives when I have to focus on the image; I use Prescysol developer which does a good job of hiding the film grain.

 

[Rick Jones]

In my mind there are only two issues: is the focuser easy for YOU to use and is it accurate? Only you can answer those questions. The first via your personal preference and the second by testing. Testing: focus your image with the chosen gadget and print the image. Make a second print throwing the image out of focus by a VERY small amount. Make a third print throwing the image out of focus by a VERY small amount in the other direction. If your first print is the sharpest accuracy is not a problem. Truth be told years ago I just had to have a Peak I. While it is a great piece of equipment I can usually (depending on the image) focus the image by eye on the baseboard just as accurately. However, I'm very nearsighted and when I take off my glasses I can examine the image at a very close distance. But I do love my gadgets!

 

[Bob F.]

I have the Major and Minor Paterson units and use them all the time. They do focus quite nicely on the grain and are adjustable for eyesight problems. I also have a Hocus-Focus which can be useful for peace of mind in the corners where the Patersons can't reach.

Having said all that, if you are getting sharp prints, is it worth changing? I'm a big fan of: "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Have fun, Bob.

 

[haris]

Thank you all,

Bob, me too have Hocus-Focus, it was my first focuser, before I got Kaiser and Meopta. I tried Hocus-Focus, and since then it collecting dust. It is only piece of my lab equipment I "regreted" buying it...

I think I will get Paterson Micro, for about 20EURO new it is OK even if make mistake If I find it good, maybe get Macro too if I feel need.

Peak model 1 sounds great, but it is too expencive for me...

Tahnks again.

 

[Chan Tran]

I don't know much about these things. After many years and my eyes aren't as good as they once were I got a Micromega. It's alright I think.

 

[Lee Shively]

There are great benefits of a grain focuser over a simple magnifying focuser, in my opinion. One of the first benefits I found was in recognizing a lot of faults in my very old (and very used) El-Nikkor 50/2.8 lens. I replaced it and my prints from 35mm negatives have improved a lot. Another benefit was in checking the alignment of the enlarger. Mine was out just enough to not be readily noticed when printing but enough to degrade the final prints. There was a marked overall improvement in my prints when the alignment problem was solved and an inferior lens was replaced. The grain focuser also helps in determining the optimum aperture at which to use enlarging lenses.

I use a Bestwell grain focuser which is not one of the high end models. It has proven to be of great value to me every time I use it.

 

[r-brian]

Barry Thornton did a test of various focuser in his book 'Edge of Darkness'. He tested around a half dozen that he had, including a Peak. He found the best and most accurate that he had was the Magnasight. He improved it's function by dropping a +4 close-up lens in the top. I think what he found with focusers was that the plane of focus on the focuser was not always the plane of the paper. I found his whole exercise very interesting.

That said, when my eye sight was 20/20, I used a grain focuser without any problems. Now with bifocals, I've gone to the Magnasight. Now to just find a +4 lens to drop in it.

 

[Andrew Moxom]

A Magnasight is what I use. I have tried the paterson ones, but did not like them that much. It's not a peak, but the Magnasight ones really are bright and great to look through without breaking the bank.

 

[photobum]

For years I used a cheapo Patterson. Some prints were sharp and other times not so sharp. Never knew why. Then I bought a Peak, the less expensive one. I found out that my high end Rodenstock lens had focus shift when it was stopped down. My very old Wollensaks did not shift.

When using a view camera I can use a freebee plastic Agfa and get as sharp a negative as any high end loupe.

 

[Lee Shively]

I've always found that the more expensive the loupe, the better the chance I would break it or lose it. Those damn cheap plastic Agfa-type loupes never broke and never got lost.

 

[dancqu]

However, I'm very nearsighted and when I take
off my glasses I can examine the image at a
very close distance.

I make myself so, nearsighted that is, by use
of a most strong pair of over the counter
reading glasses. Both eyes open. Dan

 

[Papa Tango]

Second on the Bestwell Magnasight. Excellent corner to corner focus, unlike the "micro" focusers. Big objective, bright corner to corner also, and really easy for we nearsighted folks to remove the old glasses and get a "magnified" view similar to adding extra power!