What size print are you attempting?
"Regular 23C enlargers (non-XL)
35mm negative with 50mm lens: maximum print size is 15 x 22 3/8 inches"
You should be able to just make that print. Do you have another 50mm lens to try?
If you don't, you can always turn the head and do projection printing. Yes, it's a pain to align and then re-align for normal printing, but cheaper than buying a new lens.
That way you can use a longer, possibly higher quality enlarging lens.
Manual if you don't have one...
This problem has nothing to do with condenser placement. Your lens is simply too far from the negative to focus due to the location of the first nodal point of the lens relative to the negative. I’ve run into this problem with some 50 mm lenses on my 23CII. The 23C, 23CII, and 23CIII are the same in this regard.
You need the Beseler 8022 lens board with 5/8” (15.9 mm) recess. It places the lens about 15.9 mm closer to the negative to allow focusing with lenses whose construction requires closer placement to the negative than the bellows allow in order to focus properly.
These turn up from time to time on eBay. Be certain to buy a board with the correct diameter hole. That’s most often 39 mm, but there are other sizes. If you buy a board with the wrong size hole, you won’t be able to use it with your lens.
It’s also possible to rework an existing flat lens board by making a recessed spacer mounted to the top surface of the flat board.
Another “workaround” is to find a Beseler 8029 with the 5/8” extended mount. Remove the screws and remount the cup upside-down from the top. Then you have essentially converted it into an 8022 recessed mount. It's inelegant—but it works.
I have serviced literally dozens of 23C’s over nearly 50 years.
The issue you have is that the tension springs on the rails (2 small rods coming down into a box attached to the lens board assembly), have loosened up.
Pull the back cover off the ‘box’ (remove 2 screws on each side of the cover plate, or if no screws, pry off cover GENTLY WITH SMALL SCREWDRIVER BLADE) and there are 2 screws on each rod (A) IN DIAGRAM.
Give each one a 1/2 turn CLOCKWISE, do not overtighten, just that simple adjustment (equal turns on all screws to keep the tension the same) and you should be good to go.
Tensioning the springs makes the drive wheels grip the rod with more friction.
It is possible, also, that the drive wheels (B) may be loose on their shaft and need to be tightened. That can be done with an Allen wrench of the proper size, pretty small. Any Allen wrench ’set’ should have the proper sized wrench included. NOTE, THERE ARE 2 SET SCREWS ON EACH WHEEL, SET AT 90-DEGREES APART ON THE COLLAR. TIGHTEN THE VISIBLE SSET SCREW, THEN TURN THE SHAFT TO GET TO THE SECOND SET ON EACH WHEEL.
Diagram attached, should be fairly clear…DO NOT LUBE THE DRIVE WHEELS OR SHAFT RODS, you need friction, not slippage…..DUH!!!
Roger Christian
Does your 8021 have the counterbore? I think not all of the 8021 have this. Otherwise, as Ian C mentions above, try the 8022 board,
Yup. That's the lens board that I have. Off topic question: What are the thumbscrews for?
You could probably pick up a 40mm EL-Nikkor or something similar for pretty cheap.
That would give you about a 20% maximum image size with the same head height.
Wall-projection printing ‘on a whim’ is more trouble than it is worth.
Just buy a shorter focal-length lens and be done with it.
The nice part is that the 40MM Nikkor is also 39mm “LEICA MOUNT BOARD" (if memory serves - been a long time).
So buy a second lens board or use the one you have and swap the lenses.
Of course, I bet if you looked around where you live there is probably a 23C-XL you can get for FREE!
People are likely still dying to ‘get that thing outta here’.
Off topic question: What are the thumbscrews for?
Lots of lens boards have them -- not just Beseler. There are there so that you can attach/remove the lensboard from the enlarger without grabbing and pushing/pulling on the lens.
P.S. I never had any trouble at all using a 50mm lens on a Beseler 23CII -- on a flat board.
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