Flourescent light

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Mats_A

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Does anyone have any experience with 'Sylvania F36w/red' fluorescent lights? My darkroom project is coming to the point where I must start looking for safe lights. I think a big light in the roof would be better than small local lights.

Any advice appreciated.

r

Mats
 

ic-racer

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Personally I'd stick with tried-and-true stuff, like the conventional safelight with a separate filter. I think experimenting with stuff like that in a 'new' darkroom is asking for trouble. You will have enough to sort out, and don't need some mystery loss of contrast in all your prints.
 

Reinhold

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Instead of a lot of opinion and guessing, here's a comprehensive discussion on using and testing flourescent safelights:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Reinhold

www.classicBWphoto.com
 

Casey Kidwell

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Personally I'd stick with tried-and-true stuff, like the conventional safelight with a separate filter. I think experimenting with stuff like that in a 'new' darkroom is asking for trouble. You will have enough to sort out, and don't need some mystery loss of contrast in all your prints.

Could you elaborate on possible contrast issues from safelights? I've always just done a fog test for 20 minutes or so then moved on. Didn't know there were other concerns. Thanks
 

richard ide

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I made safelights with flourescent 48" fixtures for a 1600 sq. ft. darkroom. I used 2 layers of 1/8" red acrylic and 3 sheets of red vinyl masking film similar to Rubylith. They were about 12 feet off the floor. I never had a problem, but as suggested make tests.
I also used red tubes specially made for use as safelights. Although I had a couple of sleeves, I never got around to using them.
 
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wclark5179

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ic-racer

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Instead of a lot of opinion and guessing, here's a comprehensive discussion on using and testing flourescent safelights:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Reinhold

www.classicBWphoto.com

I have had good results using the #27 Rosco for replacing the swing-away red filters and I have one on my 'lith printing flashlight'.
 

jeroldharter

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I don't like fluorescent lights of any kind in the darkroom because of the afterglow. Not good for film!

I would use a regular safelight. Even incandescent bulbs are only 15-25 watts.

A number of people like Thomas safelights because they are so bright. I found them to be too bright (fogging). If I baffled the output down to safe levels, it was no different than a regular safelight except that it was bigger, heavier, and hummed loudly.

I tried a Jobo Maxilux but it did not put out much light.

I have a Salthill safelight (not sure what kind of bulb). It is beautiful as a piece of darkroom furniture or functional art but it is dim.

I also tried some red LED safelight bulbs, like bare bulb safelights. Those work well and are reasonably bright. But I prefer the amber colored lights to red for general use.

I am awaiting an Osram/Duka safelight I bought cheap and will see what I think.

But in the end I find it hard to beat this mundane safelight:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/43175-REG/Doran_PRSL10R_Pro_Darkroom_Safelight_with.html

43175.jpg
 

Wade D

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The fluorescent fixtures are way too bright even with filters and can cause an afterglow up to 30 minutes after being turned off. Of course there are many variables such as transformer wattage and whether the bulb is an instant on or not but they still have drawbacks. I bought 2 of the old bullet style Kodak fixtures with the mounting flanges. $10 for both at a garage sale. They have 5 1/2" round OC filters with 25 watt bulbs. Pointed at the white ceiling they deliver plenty of light for my 6x10 foot darkroom. Tested and safe.
 
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Mats_A

Mats_A

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This is the best time to get your amber LED safelights for less than $10 BUX.

Just go to your local home supply or department store, wander into the holiday season dept. and pick up a set of 35 amber LED string lights. These work great in 5 years of commercial B&W processing so far. Yellow LEDs have an extreemly narrow bandwidth, narrower than the SOX lamp of the the famous Thomas safelight allowing much brighter work area. And because they are in a string about 10 feet long, the light is evenly dispersed throught your darkroom.

No fogging even after 10 minutes in the open. This allows me plenty of time to cut the 8" B&W roll paper I have into 10" sheets and fill a 100 sheet box.

You Sir, are a frigging genius! I would never have thought of that. Brilliant idea.
I will test this "Yule-method" along with the flourescent light. And most likely I will also get me some good old point lights.

r

mats
 

Wade D

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This is the best time to get your amber LED safelights for less than $10 BUX.

Just go to your local home supply or department store, wander into the holiday season dept. and pick up a set of 35 amber LED string lights. These work great in 5 years of commercial B&W processing so far. Yellow LEDs have an extreemly narrow bandwidth, narrower than the SOX lamp of the the famous Thomas safelight allowing much brighter work area. And because they are in a string about 10 feet long, the light is evenly dispersed throught your darkroom.

No fogging even after 10 minutes in the open. This allows me plenty of time to cut the 8" B&W roll paper I have into 10" sheets and fill a 100 sheet box.

What a great idea! I would not have thought of that either.
 

jerry lebens

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I've used these http://www.encapsulite.com/chart.html for over 20 years in darkrooms and never had any problems with 'afterglow', not even with film. (In one very small darkroom I was obliged to put black tape onto the leading edge of the tubes, so the light was reflected from the ceiling, because the light was initially a bit too bright).
I've seen them in many pro-labs and educational darkrooms. too.

The beauty of fluorescent light is that, because they're so big, they produce almost shadowless light - and reducing shadows relieves darkroom fatigue.

I do like the idea of fairy lights in the darkroom, though...
 
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