Personally I'd stick with tried-and-true stuff, like the conventional safelight with a separate filter. I think experimenting with stuff like that in a 'new' darkroom is asking for trouble. You will have enough to sort out, and don't need some mystery loss of contrast in all your prints.
Instead of a lot of opinion and guessing, here's a comprehensive discussion on using and testing flourescent safelights:
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)
Reinhold
www.classicBWphoto.com
This is the best time to get your amber LED safelights for less than $10 BUX.
Just go to your local home supply or department store, wander into the holiday season dept. and pick up a set of 35 amber LED string lights. These work great in 5 years of commercial B&W processing so far. Yellow LEDs have an extreemly narrow bandwidth, narrower than the SOX lamp of the the famous Thomas safelight allowing much brighter work area. And because they are in a string about 10 feet long, the light is evenly dispersed throught your darkroom.
No fogging even after 10 minutes in the open. This allows me plenty of time to cut the 8" B&W roll paper I have into 10" sheets and fill a 100 sheet box.
This is the best time to get your amber LED safelights for less than $10 BUX.
Just go to your local home supply or department store, wander into the holiday season dept. and pick up a set of 35 amber LED string lights. These work great in 5 years of commercial B&W processing so far. Yellow LEDs have an extreemly narrow bandwidth, narrower than the SOX lamp of the the famous Thomas safelight allowing much brighter work area. And because they are in a string about 10 feet long, the light is evenly dispersed throught your darkroom.
No fogging even after 10 minutes in the open. This allows me plenty of time to cut the 8" B&W roll paper I have into 10" sheets and fill a 100 sheet box.
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