The scale you're referring is for determining DOF for all aperture settings. Only the 50mm has a floating element.
or just an unusually sophisticated DOF scale (much easier to read and harder to misread than the one on the side of the bellows)?
Those Sekors are quite fine lenses !!!
I'm relatively certain that the 65mm and 140mm lenses also have floating elements; at least my Sekor C copies do.Only the 50mm has a floating element.
Not true Alan. The RB SD lens set straight from a RB SD brochure 2005 The RB SD lenses in FL of 50mm 65mm 75 f3.5 mm 90mm & 140mm macro have a front floating element. I have all but the 75mm ( so 50/65/90/140macro) and all are the newer KL design all but the 50mm(never available in newer style), I can confirm all have a floating front element with near focus to infinity focus limits.The scale you're referring is for determining DOF for all aperture settings. Only the 50mm has a floating element.
Haven't had any complaints yet with the 90mm and 250mm -- slowly building up the set.
It could be. I don't have those lenses. But the Mamiya lens manual only mentions the 50mm. If you have one of those two lenses, just check if there's that extra focusing ring and act accordingly.I'm relatively certain that the 65mm and 140mm lenses also have floating elements; at least my Sekor C copies do.
I stand corrected. I was going by the original RB67 instruction manual and my lenses which are the C type or the pre-C type. If later lenses like the KL or SD have this ring, then of course use it.Not true Alan. The RB SD lens set straight from a RB SD brochure 2005 The RB SD lenses in FL of 50mm 65mm 75 f3.5 mm 90mm & 140mm macro have a front floating element. I have all but the 75mm ( so 50/65/90/140macro) and all are the newer KL design all but the 50mm(never available in newer style), I can confirm all have a floating front element with near focus to infinity focus limits.
I use the eye-level viewfinder as well. I also have a magnifier that fits over the finder for more precise focusing. It has a diptor focuing ring. It flips out of the way when you want the full view and is removeable when you don't need it.This is an amazing system to enjoy... very studio oriented as it is massive, but if hauled around one saves gym sessions
...this places the camera at a good height to photograph kids. Also it is a good camera height for full body shots, but I find that with the chimney the camera stays a bit too low for head+shoulders, in that case the (metered) prism finder is better, bbut it weights a lot. Sadly the RZ pentamirror cannot fit. To nail precise focus often I move forward/back to refine, instead turning the know, useful for moving kids.
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https://www.flickr.com/photos/125592977@N05/14563773497/
I use the eye-level viewfinder as well. I also have a magnifier that fits over the finder for more precise focusing. It has a diptor focuing ring. It flips out of the way when you want the full view and is removeable when you don't need it.
Wow -- hyperfocal from half a meter at f/32?! I guess it makes sense; you've got roughly double the negative diagonal of a 35mm, so you get more DOF at the same focal length (less enlargement for a given viewing scale means larger circle of confusion is acceptable).
For clarity, the biggest role of the floating element is to improve corner and edge resolution, by adjusting the flat field performance.
Which is quite important when you are using the 140mm macro lens at close distances.
I tended to leave the setting on my 65mm lens at the infinity position, except when working quite close, because I rarely worried much about the flatness of field except when I was photographing something that was both close and flat.
If operating that ring shows internal lens elements moving, the answer is given. If not, the question may arise if one not just overlooked such movement, such would not make one wiser than before.
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