Flattening prints in a dry mount press: how much pressure?

[Marco Buonocore]

I've got a Seal Commercial 210M press, and was wondering what amount of pressure people use when flattening their fibre based silver gelatin prints? By this I mean, what angle is the arm bar set when in the closed (not locked) position? Do you keep it at the same 45 degree angle as is recommended for dry mounting?

Also, is there a brand of mat board from one of the big paper mills that people use which has a minimum of texture? The Bainbridge Alphamat I have is ok, but I wonder if it couldn't be better?

Thanks!

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

Yes, I have a 210M-X and my unlocked arm is set to 45 degrees. This is for a sandwich of two 4-ply boards where the photo is on the primary board, and a secondary covering board is on top without a classic cover sheet over the photo.

For print flattening I use the same setup, where the photo is sandwiched between two 4-ply boards, but without the adhesive sheet. I tried flattening once with the smooth cover sheet over the photo, but it had the effect of physically flattening the unferrotyped glossy texture, making it looked... smeared... for want of a better term.

(Note that I also use a non-hardening print fixer, which may have left the surface texture more delicate than it may have been with a hardening formula.)

Ken

 

[DREW WILEY]

Full pressure for actually bonding to drymount tissue. Merely closed for drying and flattening board. My top handle has two positions.

 

[Alan9940]

I warm the press some--not up to full operating temp for dry mounting--place the prints between two 4-ply boards, and then merely close it (like Drew); no real pressure is being put on the prints. I've never seen any indication of texture from the boards.

 

[Hilo]

I have the same 210M and a Büscher 20X24 and I use them for flattening fiber prints at about 80 degrees celsius (175 Fahrenheit). The tension of both presses is set quite high, it takes effort (but not too much) to close them. I press for 1.5 to 2.5 minutes, but nothing bad happens when they stay in longer. You will have to experiment to understand what works for you. The carton you use should be very smooth and very clean. Lay the prints face down.

You will need to experiment between pressure, temperature and time.

After pressing your prints should rest in between acid free blotters (carton) and preferably for a night. After it is best to cut half a cm from each side of the paper - it takes the tension of the paper away.

If you let other use your press, make sure their prints are washed totally correctly. Otherwise you carton will absorb the wrong stuff !

 

[Vaughn]

...(Note that I also use a non-hardening print fixer, which may have left the surface texture more delicate than it may have been with a hardening formula.)

Ken

If you give the print a few days, the gelatin emulsion will harden up as much as if you has used a hardener fixer.

The easiest way to dry in a press -- close the press for 30 sec or so, open it, close for 30 sec, then open it again. repeat one of two more times. Opening the press allows the moisture to escape.

 

[Nathan King]

...Merely closed for drying and flattening board...

I also allow the prints to cool under a weight.