Flattening Curling Fibre prints

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Uncle Bill

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I just got my feet wet printing with fibre paper and I love the results I been getting with some product that was given to me. My PR instructor gave me some paper that I figure 10 years old or less, I have been getting some really nice results.

My big challenge is will some Ilford double weight 5x7 grade and grade 3 semi flat and flat paper. Aside from the fact it really curls up, the grade one is quite brittle and I am concerned. The paper I think is at least 15-20 years old when Ilford was part of Ciba-Gigey. The paper came with the enlarger.

For now I am improvising with big coffee table books, the print on grade 3 is not so bad, the prints on grade 1 I am starting to see stress cracks on the first layer.

Thoughts?
 

David A. Goldfarb

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Drymount press. If you just use it for flattening prints, you don't need a very large one.

Preheat the press to about 180 degrees with two sheets of mat board in it. Put the print between the boards with the press closed but not clamped down until flat. Then put the print between two sheets of mat board at room temperature and weight it down with books until it cools.
 

keithwms

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I definitely agree with David on the drymount press, it was a eureka moment when I first saw what that can do. For the pressing I put the dry prints between acid free tracing paper. I also tried stacking a bunch of semiflattened prints in the warm press, interleaved with paper, and then I just turned off the press, came back the next day and they were all super flat. For actual drymounting I have been playing with thick watercolour paper and I like that a lot. The prints can be just as flat as RC.
 

PHOTOTONE

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I have recently been printing with 30 year old paper, and even that old I have not noticed any age-cracking when dry. It flattens just fine. Perhaps you are using too much hardener in your fixer?
 
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Uncle Bill

Uncle Bill

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I am using Ilford Fix which is a non hardening fixer. The Grade 3 paper flat finish is the least offender. I should also state I don't get any age cracking with the "younger" fibre paper given to me by my PR instructor.

I have a drying machine, would that help? Anyone have any operating instructions or a link to them? Also how much is a good used dry mount press.

The paper in question

Ilfobrom IB1 .24P single weight semi matt sold originally for $1.20 CAD for a 25 pack
Ilfobrom IB3.5k double weight Matt finish sold originally for $ 6.46 CAD for a 100 pack.

Bill
 
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micek

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I place two volumes of my Encyclopaedia Britannica on the floor, the print sandwiched between tracing paper on top of them, and then another 6 or 7 volumes of the Encyclopaedia on top of the print. Three to four days later it will be beautifully flat.
 

Neal

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Dear Bill,

Unless you were given a boatload of paper, don't kill yourself over it. If you have a dryer, why not try it? Roll the paper onto the dryer plate to get a good contact and eliminate water/air bubbles. Start cool and wait until the paper pops off the plate on it's own. My personal favorite method for drying fb prints is to squeegee them, let them dry a bit on a screen emulsion side up, and then use a blotter book.

A search of the forum will turn up a ton of ways to dry fb paper. Many of them seem at odds with each other. Experiment and find out what works for you. If it works, ignore posts telling you it doesn't. :>)

Neal Wydra
 

jstraw

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I place two volumes of my Encyclopaedia Britannica on the floor, the print sandwiched between tracing paper on top of them, and then another 6 or 7 volumes of the Encyclopaedia on top of the print. Three to four days later it will be beautifully flat.

What does the second book under the prints do for you? :wink:
 

jp80874

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Bill,

If you have two framed screens around, wash them with soap and water, then sandwich the wet prints between them and let them dry. The narrower or thinner the frames the better. This will limit the amount of curl.

Drying them slowly seems to help. I have a heated dryer with screens (see Calumet). If you use heat and only a bottom screen you suddenly have potato chips.

One of the differing opinions is which way the emulsion goes. I prefer drying prints face (emulsion) down on the screen. Of course if you use two screens close together I don't suppose there is a difference.

For future purchases, if you wait patiently, Simon Galley Director of Ilford says they will be coming out with fiber paper that dries flat early in 2007. Why look at the calendar. It is early in 2007. SIMON! I really don't want to buy a BIG dry mount press for my 20x24s. Please give me a good reason to leave Kentmere.

John Powers
 
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G'day Bill - I've just printed my first fibre paper in 20 years and it was even curling as it came out of the box! After final wash I sponge off excess water, dry on screens face up. They're still a bit curly so I created a cheap and cheerfull remedy - I bought two ceramic, gloss, non-patterned floor tiles - slightly larger than the largest size prints I want to use - on one tile on the unglazed back of the tiles I super-glued a couple of handles. Lay one tile glazed face up somewhere out of the way - cover with acid-free blotting paper - place stacked prints faceup or face down cover with another sheet of acid free blotting paper then place second tile glazed face down on top - you need the handles of the back of the top tile as they're heavy as lead if you're using 12 x 16 prints. Leave it all for a day at least and hey presto - flat prints for about $40 all up. Good luck. Patricia
 

dancqu

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After final wash I sponge off excess water, dry on
screens face up. They're still a bit curly so ...

Combined drying and flattening can be done using
a corrugated stack dryer. I'm very satisfied with the
results I've been getting. Don't be in a hurry though.
A few days at room temperatures are needed. My
unit will handle 22, 8x10s. Maximum size is 11x17.
Compact, very light weight, and easy to stow.
About $20 with driers.

Search www.forestry-suppliers.com for, plant presses .
First page fourth column, ventilators and driers. Dan
 
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