BetterSense
Allowing Ads
I have heard that preflashing to an amount just below that needed to create density will increase shadow speed. I use the technique myself in printing, but I'm not sure it's actually making the paper faster. How long does this effect last? Can I preflash a minute ahead of time, or an hour or day ahead of time? Does post flashing do the same thing?
What other treatments are there to increase the real shadow speed? I have heard that hydrogen does something; also, baking film?
I know I mentioned paper, but in this thread I wanted to talk about film. I'm thinking about making a device to facilitate preflashing for night exposures. But I don't know if it will work if I preflash before I go out or if I have to flash during the exposure.
I know I mentioned paper, but in this thread I wanted to talk about film. I'm thinking about making a device to facilitate preflashing for night exposures. But I don't know if it will work if I preflash before I go out or if I have to flash during the exposure.
Athiril's c41 postings are impressive.Athiril (who mostly post in the color section here) has done some incredible work with preflashing, and claims to have gotten quite a bit of extra shadow detail.
It seems to me using lenses with a little more internal flair would produce similar (not quite identical) results.
It's not a simple as that internal flare causes loss of shadow detail and drops overall micro-contrasts, images look less sharp.
[snip ... snip]
Ian
But you get sort of similar results by using a single coated lens which is fuss free.
I'm not selling any of mine so no vesting interest.
Pre-flashing works predominately on the shadows not the highlights.
If Zone II has 2 units of light and Zone VII has 64 units of light, a uniform pre-flash of exposure of 2 units will add +2 units right across the scale. The difference is that Zone II with 2 units of light moves up to Zone III because it has received +2 units of light (100% extra light) but Zone VII hardly shifts at all as an extra 2 units of light only represents an increase of 3.125%.
Using pre-flash was very useful to me when I did landscape photography and could not afford to use a lower shutter speed or wider aperture (if this was an option then I could just have given more exposure and used a two-bath developer or -1 development).
My technique was that I have a thin piece of opaque plastic mounted into a filter ring. I would meter through this and then set the exposure for Zone II. I then placed the filter on the lens and gave the first exposure with the determined Zone II exposure. The filter was then removed and a second exposure was made placing what would be normally a Zone IV area on Zone III. Thereby, I achieved a shorter exposure time / higher aperture for the scene.
I used to use a similar technique with slide film when shooting train interiors with people for British Rail. It took some testing at first but, once the variables were pinned down, it worked a treat.
Normally, if the film was uprated (and processed as such) they would be very contrasty with little to no shadow detail (not good with the mixture of skin colours amongst our regular models!). Using the pre-flash filter technique, the uprated film (usually +2 stops) was processed for a +1.5 uprating time and delivered outstanding results with a full range of tones.
Bests,
David.
www.dsallen.de
You get similar results if your single coated lens has just the right amount of flare and the highlights in your image have just the right intensity. Note that Athiril's work requires very well dialed in preflash. Add too much, and you kill all detail in the shadow regions, add to little and you end up with no improvement.
BTW we should make a distinction whether someone preflashes film or paper. Preflashing film, if done right, provides some extra shadow detail, whereas as far as I have understood this, preflashing of photographic paper somewhat reduces image contrast and reduces required exposure time for big enlargements. Could some of the expert printers fill me in on that?
This is brilliant info. Thanks!
Did you ever preflash the film hour or days ahead of time, or always within seconds of the main exposure?
Am I correct that your preflashed negatives, if they were developed without any additional exposure, would have exhibited some amount of density from the preflash exposure? Some sources I have read suggest that the preflash exposure can be so small as to be below the threshold of the film and still give results.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?