Electronic flashes have some pretty high voltages applied to the flash tube - usually a large condenser charged to a few hundred volts and a trigger transformer supplying a few thousand volts. You really don't want these connections to be accessible. Imagine the inside of your thumb lighting up like a flash. I've had minor high-voltage burns and they hurt, they go deep. I've talked to a client who had major burns from their arm falling across a high voltage capacitor bank - not pretty. The capacitor bank made a hole in their skin leading down to an area of well done cooked meat - the energy in an electronic flash won't go that far, but...
A high intensity LED flash, as used on a cell phone, is a better alternative but the light output is low compared to a Press 25 bulb.
The flash circuit in a camera only applies the voltage to the lamp socket for a short while so any LED flash would have to work directly off the flash contacts and the battery rather than a charged capacitor.
Flash bulbs are plentiful on ebay. I confess to chucking a large box (as in the box that produce comes in) of the things in a dumpster some years ago.
A big prolem, even if a xenon source with flashbulb dimensions were engineered, is the issue of FLASH SYNCHRONIZATION.
Shutters designed to work with flashbulbs had a timer delay between applying voltage to the bulb and when the shutter actually opened. So a xenon source would be immediately fired and finish in about 1/1000 second (or within the first 1-2ms), well before the M-sync shutter opened, about 20ms later!
Indeed. Variable delay is probably wise, as the 20ms which I commented about is an APPROXIMATION within a range of typical delay times. As the M-sync bulb is a failry long duration burn, the precisioni in timing was not essential...just get the filament enough time to start burning. In this case, we have to wait an uncertain amount of time after the M-sync shtter is known to be open before energizing the xenon flashtube.Not if the delay is built into the unit. This should be simple for an electronics engineer to overcome. I would think it could be adjustable for a couple different syncs, maybe even variable.
I have 6 Sylvania P25B, selling for what they cost me, plus shippingIf anybody has extra press 25 or equivalent, let me know!!
Famous last words! If it was simple and be a marketable idea I think it would have been done long ago... during the flash bulb to electronic flash transition. Now... niche of a niche of a niche.This should be simple
Ah... you are very realistic!!Ah well...it's pie in the sky anyway.
You're only partially correct.Famous last words! If it was simple and be a marketable idea I think it would have been done long ago... during the flash bulb to electronic flash transition. Now... niche of a niche of a niche.
That analog/hybrid/etc. issue is only related to the way the image itself is taken and worked upon.I don't see a forum for hybrid in that section, so I'm hoping this isn't a violation.
It has been done. See here for how simple it is to do! There are even instructions on how how to make your own copy.Not if the delay is built into the unit. This should be simple for an electronics engineer to overcome. I would think it could be adjustable for a couple different syncs, maybe even variable.
It has been done. See here for how simple it is to do! There are even instructions on how how to make your own copy.
Electronic Flash M-Sync Hack : 14 Steps (with Pictures) - Instructables
Flashbulbs had a delay from current reaching the bulb filament to peak light of between 5 and 30 milliseconds. The camera shutter, shutter speed and type of flashbulb were all part of the equation for getting the right amount of light to the film.
The way to go is to take ALL electrical parts out of a bulb flash and mount instead all the electrical parts of an electronic flash inside its handle, except for the flash tube, that is positioned inside the reflector where the bulb was positioned.
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