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Flash sync connection doubts. Please reassure me

BlueWind

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I have access to several modern Godox flash units. They have a cable that allows them to sync with a camera.


And I have a vintage mid-sixties convertible Symmar lens that I intend to use for in studio photos.

That lens has a connection that (I believe…) allows the synchronisation between the lens and a flash unit- connection marked with the red A. The cable from the flash seems to fit the A connection


My questions – can I use that cable reliably ?? Is there any possible incompatiblities between a vintage lens shutter and a modern flash unit ? Any risk of damage to the flash ??

As the Godox flash units do not belong to me I want to know the risk of this conecction - if there is any risk…

Thank you for your advice

Joao
 

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What you got is the standard german female "PC" synch connector.

You hardly can do something wrong with it, whether concerning the flash or the shutter.


Such connector leads to a simple mechanical switch closing an electrical circuit inside a flash, of whatever kind.
 
That is in fact a PC (Prontor-Compur) flash sync connector. And yes, old mechanical shutters are completely safe to use with modern electronic flashes.

Yes, there was a period when electronic flashes had high voltage (in some cases, up to 600 V) present on the sync terminals, and those are capable of damaging unprotected electronic sync shutters (like those in some of the late generation film cameras and early DSLRs), but even among those, there were only a couple obscure models that I'm aware of having damaged the metal mechanical contacts in a mechanical leaf shutter.
 
Thank you a lot for the reassuring answers.
Both the lens and the flash units are quite new to me.
Best regards
Joao
 
somewhere on the shutter you may have an MX switch. That affects the timing of the flash trigger. For a modern flash you'll want it set to X.
 
As "B" stands for BIRDIE...


Can you show an example with that "A"?


But of course at german leaf-shutters "A" stands for "Automatik", but this is so obvious that I can't believe you are referring to to such. Thus my request for an example you have in mind.
 
Last edited:
abruzzi said:
somewhere on the shutter you may have an MX switch. That affects the timing of the flash trigger. For a modern flash you'll want it set to X.
Click to expand...

On a shutter with a PC connection, but without an MX switch, and no designation, can you assume it is X? Is there an easy way to test which it is?
 
xkaes said:
On a shutter with a PC connection, but without an MX switch, and no designation, can you assume it is X? Is there an easy way to test which it is?
Click to expand...

Look through the shutter when firing an electronic flash. If you see it, you got X-synchronisation.
 
Thanks. I'll make sure I use my 15 foot PC cord!!!
 
I did not mean looking into that flash. Darken the room watch for the reflected light.
 
xkaes said:
On a shutter with a PC connection, but without an MX switch, and no designation, can you assume it is X? Is there an easy way to test which it is?
Click to expand...

I was going to say, take a photo and see if the film is exposed. My understanding is "M" was for flash bulbs that took time to reach intensity, so it triggers a little earlier, to give a few extra milisecods to reach full intensity. Modern flashes are faster so X sends the pulse much closer to maximum opening. I'm not sure, but the lever CCW from the PC socket in the OPs photos looks like it might be the flash speed. If the shutter is reletively modern (i.e. all black Copal for instance) I suspect that X is all it does.
 
abruzzi said:
I was going to say, take a photo and see if the film is exposed. My understanding is "M" was for flash bulbs that took time to reach intensity, so it triggers a little earlier, to give a few extra milisecods to reach full intensity.
Click to expand...

There were Medium and Fast speed bulbs, concerning their time for peak rise.

Correspondingly there were M and F settings or connectors at some camreras. The M setting held out longest.
With the small AG bulbs and the spread of electronic flashes cameras only offered the X synchronisation.



There were more types of bulbs, as the long burning Focal Plane type. (Not to be mixed up with the PF designation.)
 
AgX said:
I did not mean looking into that flash. Darken the room watch for the reflected light.
Click to expand...

I tested out my unmarked shutter today, and your suggestion worked perfectly. I placed a Vivitar 283 at 1/64th power and connected it to the #1 shutter at its top speed -- 1/125th. I looked through the back of the shutter in a darkroom with the flash pointed forward -- away from me. I could clearly see the light, so I've got X-synch -- which is what I need.
 
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