Flash Recommendation

[LonerMatt]

Hey guys,

So I own an OM4ti and an F280 flash, but I find it a bit clunky to use because it's really tricky to know if I'm exposing an image correctly.

What I'm after is hopefully an additional camera to be used just for flash work that:
1. Is affordable
2. Is cheap
3. Is VERY easy to expose properly and manually - preferably just like using a light meter, which the OM4 is kind of, except in low light when then one has to use a manual exposure table which is pretty tricky to read

...or maybe it's time to buy a digital camera for all this!

Matt

 

[Chan Tran]

The OM4 is among the best 35mm camera for automatic flash work.

 

[LonerMatt]

The OM4 is among the best 35mm camera for automatic flash work.

Have you used one? IF so appreciate any tips

 

[locutus]

Depending on what kind of stuff you want to use flashes for a external handheld incident flash meter might be far more useful.

 

[Ricardo Miranda]

Have you used one? IF so appreciate any tips

What is the problem you are having in using the OM-4TI?

 

[LonerMatt]

If the meter shows that I need to shoot lower than 1/60 I have to use a chart to guess the exposure and I can't really read it very easily.

So almost all flash situations I'm left with something that's a bit clunky and awkward.

 

[Soeren]

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/shared/flash/f280.htm

http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/olympusom1n2/shared/flash/index.htm

 

[chriscrawfordphoto]

The F280 can be used in two modes. In the normal mode, it works like any normal flash in TTL auto mode. That means the camera, in autoexposure mode, automatically sets the shutter at the X-Sync speed, which is 1/60 with the OM-4T, and it cuts off the flash when the sensor in the camera sees that the subject has been properly exposed. The F280 works fine in this mode, but has the serious disadvantage of not offering bounce capability. I solved that by using a stroboframe bracket and Olympus's TTL Auto cord.

The other F280 mode is the FP Sync mode, which is designed for use at shutter speeds of 1/60 and above, all the way to 1/2000. This is mainly used for fill flash, but the metering is not nearly as sophisticated as the auto-fill flash modes used on more modern 35mm SLRs like the Canon EOS-1 and Nikon N90. One problem is that in FP mode, the flash just isn't very powerful. I don't have the chart in front of me, but I think that shooting at 1/1000 of a second, you have to be like 3 feet away from your subject for correct exposure!

Because of the primitivity of the FP mode and its low power, I always use my F280 in normal TTL auto mode. Olympus made another flash, the T32, that offers bounce and is, if I remember right, a bit more powerful than the F280 (but without offering the FP mode). For normal flash photography, the T32 is probably the best choice.

 

[ciniframe]

I have a 4Ti but so seldom use flash at all. If I was looking to have a fairly powerful flash I'd probably look for a used Vivitar 285 and just switch the camera to manual and let the flash sensor expose the scene. If I remember right the 285 can also vary output in manual down to 1/16 power or 4 stops. I have an old 283 but have not powered it up for 5 or 6 years, don't even know if it works, the main cap probably needs forming at least.

 

[narsuitus]

What types of film do you want to use with the recommended flash?
Color or Black & White film?
ISO 100 or 3200?
Print film or Slide film?

What subjects do you like to shoot with the recommended flash?
People or Still Life?
Social Events or Sports Events?
Small Jewelry or Large Trucks?

How often will you need to use the recommended flash as a fill-flash?

 

[Chan Tran]

You simply mount the flash. Set the switch to Normal, turn the flash on. Set the camera on Auto. Whenever the shutter speed drops below 1/60 the camera would automatically set it to 1/60 and fire the flash and turn the flash off when there is sufficient exposure.

 

[Alan Gales]

I mostly used flash for shooting people. I used to shoot a Contax 139 with TTL metering like your Olympus. I had a small TLA 20 Contax flash but I also used a huge Sunpak 444D flash. It had a revolving bounce head and was the most powerful shoe mounted flash made at the time. I also had a Sunpak umbrella that attached to the flash head when the head was angled and turned backwards. This worked great for softening the flash especially as fill. I also often used a Contax electrical flash cord that would go from the camera hot shoe to my small TLA 20 flash so I could hold the small flash off camera.

Even with TTL I found a shoe mounted flash pointed straight at the subject can be very harsh. Also when shooting people you can get that horrible red-eye effect.


About your digital comment. Zach Arias is one of the leading portrait/people photographers today. He shoots a Phase One medium format digital camera and also little Fujifllm mirrorless digital cameras. I've seen him on video shooting the Fuji's with a pocket wizard in the hot shoe and holding a small flash off camera. My point is the same things for flash photography apply whether shooting film or digital photography.

 

[LonerMatt]

Thanks guys, I'll keep plugging away.

 

[LonerMatt]

OK so I think there might be an issue with my flash.

I have the F280, and when it's on super FP mode it will fire, but on the other two modes I cannot get the flash to fire, whether the camera itself is set to auto or manual.

Am I missing something obvious or is this is a fault in the equipment?