Flash options/questions for Hasselblad 503cw

[David J]

I'm looking to add a flash unit to my collection of Hasselblad gear, but I'm completely confused on how flash units work on a Hasselblad 503cw. It looks like my two choices are either the Metz-built Proflash 4504 which is a handle mount unit, or the current D-Flash 40 shoe-mount unit. Which is better? How do they work? I understand that there is flash sync on both of these, but how do you determine what the exposure would be?

 

[rbarker]

The 503CW has built-in TTL/OTF (thru the lens, off the film) flash automation. The adapter module for the flash unit will communicate with the in-camera circuitry to control the flash when it's in TTL mode (there's a separate connector for this). The choice between design styles is really a function of how you hold the camera and where you want the flash. If you use the Hassy handgrip or a flash bracket, the "shoe-mount" design will be preferable. The handle model sits to the side, and is usually used hold the assembly of flash and camera.

 

[David J]

Hmmm..... I'm still not sure how this works. Let's say I have a portrait shot I'd like to take, but its a little dark, or maybe I want to use flash to stop action. I take a meter reading, but that reading doesn't know I'm going to use a flash. So... If I actually use those shutter speed / aperture settings, won't the use of the flash make the shot overexposed?

 

[Lopaka]

Well David, I'm not used to having a camera do my thinking for me, but as I understand it, the TTL function shuts off the flash when it thinks the film has received enough light. I don't think it cares where the light comes from, so the trick is to not expose for available light significantly higher than the flash guide number would give you.

Here's a simple example of manually controlled available/flash combo I used for years as a wedding photographer when shooting outside - for any camera that will synch at all shutter speeds (which I belive the 503cw does):

If you are shooting in bright sunlight, and you want to use the flash as a fill to soften the shadows, say at 1:2 lighting ratio - if the f-stop of the flash as the only light at the distance from the subject is f11, read the sunlight - if it gives you f11 at 1/250 shoot f16 at 1/125. This makes the sun your main and allows 50% fill from the flash.

If you are shooting in lower light and want the flash as the main and available light as the fill (assuming the same 1:2 lighting ratio) set the f-stop for the flash (say its f11 again) and the meter calls for f11 at 1/60, then shoot f11 at 1/125. This lets the flash take over the main lighting of the subject and fills in with available light.

Hope this helps.

Bob