Fixing aperture and shutter settings on a Holga

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Donald Qualls

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I just received a Holga 120S -- the original version, no B setting, and (along with the Holga N) the aperture switch changes nothing. There seems to be a smaller (f/11?) mask behind a larger (f/8) visible, but moving the selector from "Sunny" to "Cloudy/Flash" visibly moves a narrow lever behind the actual aperture, but doesn't move an aperture mask as it should.

This appears to be the case with all Holga S and N models ever made. but I've read it's easy enough to modify the camera, either to have f/8 all the time (or f/13, if you agree with those who claim it's actually f/13 and f/20) or, presumably by recreating the smaller mask or removing it from the wrong place and attaching it to the lever that moves with the aperture switch.

I was going to ask how to get into the thing to fix the aperture, but apparently someone not only did it, but put up a well photographed and well written tutorial on Instructables.

That means the only remaining question is how to add a B mode to the 120S model (this, and inclusion of a second frame mask, are the only significant differences between the 120S and 120N). I presume this will be something I can work out once I have the shutter out -- this is a rotary shutter, much like the one in my Shur-Shot Jr. or any other 1930s to 1950s vintage box camera. There's a point in the travel of the disk where a simple stop will cause it to hang with the shutter open until the release lever is returned to rest position, at which time the over-center spring will reset the shutter disk. The question that will arise is how to install such a stop in an existing shutter and how to control it from outside the camera once it's reassembled. I'll take pictures as I go, I promise...
 

awty

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Think it would be far easier just buying a N if you want bulb. Can get the FN and have a flash. You can easily carry two of them.
I use bulb lots, be handy having a cable release.
The only modding the holga really needs is black tape to stop light leaks and the backs coming off.
Puts some film in and get Holgaring.
 
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Donald Qualls

Donald Qualls

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Got a roll of XP2 loaded and on frame 11 (of 16, camera came with only the 6x4.5 mask -- 6x6 mask on the way); a roll of .EDU Ultra 400 in my pocket for later. Had a flash failure on frame 1 (forgot I took the batteries out of the flash for my partner's Mac keyboard), and forgot the lens cap on frames 3 and 4 (I never have that problem on my Kiev 4, it must come up with the Holga and Debonair because I don't look at the lens in much detail to set an aperture, and the cap is the same color as the lens surround -- on the Kiev it's black on chrome)

I have a pretty good idea how to put a stop into this shutter, and I enjoy this kind of fiddling -- and I'd like to have a second aperture choice. I attempted to measure the existing aperture, and it look like f/11 to f/13 to me, so a second, smaller one would be f/16 to f/20. Looks easy enough to do, and since my camera doesn't have something rattling around inside the top like the one in that Instructable, I don't need to take the top off.

What I think I'll do is make a lever that pushes a simple blocking piece into contact with the little tab on the shutter disk. I can pivot that on a pin glued to the shutter baseboard, cut a slot in the left side of the shutter housing for the control, and use either friction or notches in the slot to keep the setting in place. Should be a nice weekend project.

FWIW, @awty there's a 3D printed cable release adapter you can buy -- holgamods.com -- and that service will also apparently make a bunch of mods to your Holga if you like that kind of thing. I'll see what I can do myself, I think I can do what he offers that I want -- correct apertures, B shutter, focus calibration (trivial once B is installed), close focus (just mod the focus stop on the lens). The cable release adapter, however, and maybe a tripod socket, I can't do myself.
 

awty

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Hope you get it sorted, I am fond of a good fiddle to.:wink:
I think part of the cameras charm is not quite having full control.
I don't ever take mine out with the lens cap, but have quite a few double exposures and sometimes forget whether I have it set to B or N.
 
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